240sx auto to manual swap pilot bushing

To get to the upper bolts, take off your parking brake and your drive shaft will spin, then reapply the parking brake (not too hard there guys). Let the back side of the driveshaft lay on the floor. Also remove the small d-shaft support a thick wire X-member that keeps the drive shaft from whipping around if it breaks. Get them out of your engine bay. 9. Disconnect all the sensors you can from you transmission, and the back O2 sensor on your exhaust. Two of the sensors can be cut. 10. Now for one of the time consuming parts (this took us most of a day). You will have to weave your hands in everywhere to find and remove the bellhousing bolts holding the transmission bellhousing onto your engine. We used a ratcheting wrench on the top bolts, with a breaker bar and a jack running from underneath the car to the wrench on top of the engine. For some of the other bolts we used a socket (with swivels), and for still other bolts we used obstruction wrenches. Two of the bellhousing bolts run through the starter, disconnect the starter before you take out these bolts then remove the starter.We found that the best way to access the two top bellhousing bolts was thru the passenger side of the engine bay, behind the engine block - we found it necessary to move some lines and disconnect a heater hose. 11. Next, remove the bolts holding the tranny to the cross member, then jack up the back of the tranny and remove off the cross member. To get to the top ones, get a 27mm socket and turn the crank pulley. Slowly lower the transmission part way down and disconnect any of the wiring that you did not get before. We actually wedged in a jack bar to keep the flywheel from spinning, and put 2 sockets and breaker bars on the flywheel (one braced against the ground tightening to keep the flywheel from spinning, and another to break the flywheel bolts). If you have a propane torch, heat these mofo-bolts up and that should help you break them loose some more.

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Used the single cam trans, but forgot that the motor was originally from an auto, and did not swap out the bushing for a new manual pilot bushing. The clutch alignment tool fit fine, no play, and the transmission mated fine. Everything I found stated that the inner diameter of the auto bushing was smaller and you physically could not mate the transmission or get the alignment tool in. It's a possibility that if it was, the auto pilot bushing was so far shot that that's the reason why your standard Trans mated relative easy. Or because someone already took out the auto pilot bushing. One is Matt’s ’98 starfire blue S14, the other is my ’97 cobalt green S14. The procedure was basically the same for both cars, and some pictures may jump from one car to the other. The procedure is the same for OBDI cars except OBDI cars to not require the a Crank Angle Sensor. The parts necessary for the swaps were obtained from 2 separate OBDII ’96 S14s. OBDI transmissions could have been used, but a mount would have to be drilled for the CAS, and we didn’t want to worry about that. I will try to provide as many pictures as possible. WARNING: Before you start I suggest you read this entire writeup, and search for others - you will want all the info you can get. Also, plan on this taking longer than you think - some bolts are extremely hard to get to or break loose - and the transmissions are heavy and hard to stab in. Do not sacrifice safety for getting it done quickly. Although a 240sx only weighs 2800 lbs, it only takes 15 lbs of pressure applied correctly to break the human skull. Also we found it best to take off the front wheels to give you a little more room to work in. Drain your transmission fluid from the draining bolt. 2. Remove the finisher plate from your center console. On the differential side there will be 4 bolts that hold the drive shaft to the diff. Remove these bolts, you will want your parking brake on to keep the driveshaft from spinning.

Some people say that the tranny must be rotated while jacking it up so the starter hump points down, the rotated into place once it is mated to the transmission, we did not do this and still got it into place. We finally got it to work by: Putting one jack in the middle of the 5 speed (at its center of gravity on a flat spot) and another jack at the very back of the transmission. This allows you to wag the tranny side to side and up and down. Remove the exhaust piping that runs from the header to the cat so you can have more room to slide the transmission in there, you may want to have a rubber mallet to hammer the back of the transmission in. We had to keep going up and down with the transmission. Do not let the transmission shaft handle a whole lot of weight otherwise it will bend the shaft or break your clutch.We found the clutch part out the hard way. Bolt in all the bellhousing bolts and put on the starter. Then, slowly raise the back of the transmission while you lower the front of the engine and reattach the cross member and bolt the cross member back in to hold the back of the transmission up. You should now be able to take all the jacks out from under the transmission and put back in all sensors and vac. lines. 8. Now it’s time to install the clutch and brake pedals. First do the brake pedal otherwise the clutch pedal will get in the way. There are 4 bolts holding the brake assembly to the firewall, and one holding the brake assembly up under the dash. Remove all of these, and the two sensors on the brake pedal, and the cotter pin holding the brake pedal to the booster. Now with some wrestling, the brake assembly will slide out and there is no need to drop the steering column. Now install your new brake pedal and put the sensors back in. One sensor is for the brake lights, the other I believe is for cruise control. If you only have one bung in your new pedal I believe the cruise control sensor can be mounted on the cluth pedal. 9.

If you (unlike us) have an impact wrench this may come in handy. 15. Once the flywheel comes off, you should see a bushing sticking out about a. Sand inside your crankshaft with some 800 grit sandpaper, this will help the pilot bushing slide in if there is rust buildup.Then clean out inside there really well. Take a hammer and a 12mm socket and hammer your pilot bushing into your crankshaft. Get them on there tight because you don’t want your flywheel to come loose and have to do all the above all over.Clean off your flywheel by spraying it with some carb cleaner or something similar. 3. Next, use the alignment tool and affix your clutch disc over the flywheel. If not, I believe the side of the clutch that the springs sit further out on goes towards the back of the car. 4. Now put on the pressure plate. Keep the alignment tool in the clutch and slide the pressure plate over the clutch. Now you can take the clutch alignment tool out. 5. Take the throwout bearing off of your 5 speed transmission if it has one on there and replace it with a new one if you have it (it will come in a clutch kit). To change it you may need a wheel puller and a hammer to get it back together. 5 ?. Take the shifter off the 5 speed transmission if you haven’t already. 6. Next, it is time to pre-wire your 5 speed transmission. Please refer to the “wiring section” of this writeup to do this. You will want to wire in most of the sensors before you install the 5 speed into the car. The one sensor on top front of the transmission (CAS?) you must leave out otherwise it will catch on the flywheel and break into lots of pieces, or rub on top of the transmission bay - make sure you put it back in later, otherwise your car will not work. 7. This is the hardest step to do. This step took us a good 6 hours and multiple attempts.

Results: The car ran fine, the transmission is very loud when the interior pieces are not installed, and you will get a CEL. But now you get to shift your car yourself. 5th gear on Matt's car will grind if you do not shift just right (the transmission is used, so some quirks are to be expected). Also we have not figured out how to get cruise control working - so that shouldn't be too hard. My car is not 100% swapped yet, but due to some previous-owner installed car alarm, I can't get my radio to work. Once the new ECU was installed, there was no CEL and no more rough starts - the car behaves exactly the same as a stick shift that came out of the factory. The Manual ECU can be used with the automatic transmission wiring harness. If your car is a '95 the new ECU must be from a '95 (maybe 96?) If your car is a '96 the new ECU must be from a '96 (maybe 95?) If your car is a 97-98, the new ECU must be from a 97-98, or you can re-pin a 95-96 ECU to work in a 97-98 240sx (which is what we did on Matt's car). In order to re-pin it, follow the link here: JWT Wiring pdf Once it is re-pinned, you may need to buy a new rear O2 sensor in order to clear all CELS (that is mentioned in the link) Sorry, I'm not to NICO savvy - I am mostly on local forums and don't visit this site a whole lot. If this is not removed then it could slip while driving and your key will be stuck in the ignition. You may say that removeing it is common sense but so is removeing the auto shifter and everybody mentioned that. I believe the wiring is extremly similar, but some connectors look different and some wires are different colors. Everything works great, no 5th gear grind like on the starfire blue kouki. The only annoying thing is the clutch pedal.it is really soft, and it's a paint to adjust the pedal. In the near future I am going to swap in a 5 speed ECU which will get rid of all the codes.

Once the brake pedal is in it is time to install the clutch pedal. Luckily, Nissan left a guide under the dash that tells you where to drill. Drill out the two bolt holes and the larger center whole with a circle cutter drill bit and touch it up with a dremel. Slide your clutch assembly up there and bolt it in, attach the clutch master cylinder on the other side and cotter pin them together. 10. Run the clutch hardline from the clutch master cylinder to the clutch slave cylinder and by now you should have bolted the slave cylinder on the engine. At this time you can also eliminate the clutch dampening system by bypassing the large diameter hardline loop, and going directly from the hardline coming out of the master cylinder to the rubber line coming out of the slave cylinder. This will give your clutch pedal a better feel and less stuff for you to worry about. 11. Reinstall the drive shaft, then fill the transmission up with gear oil (2.4 quarts max) from where the shifter sits, and then reinstall the shifter. Two of the shifter bolts you will have to be under the car to get to. 12. Bleed your clutch lines and adjust your clutch pedal to where you want it. 13. Re-install the shifter rubber boot, the center console, and the shifter finisher plate and leather boot. 14. Lower your car onto the ground (we ended up with our car teeter-tottering on 2 jack stands which was kind of funny and dangerous at the same time) 15. Start your car and see what happens. 16. We got a CEL when using the Auto ECU, but I have heard you can wire the CEL light to the airbag or something to only light up when you start the car, or just put a resistor in the CEL circuit. 17. Drive it around the block, and take it easy until your clutch is broken in (about 500 miles) Wiring Visit: for wiring instructions. Any other sensors that were on the auto, but not on the 5 speed can be cut off and discarded - I believe there were 2 or 3 of them on the passenger side of the bellhousing.

I suggest you take some pictures of how everything is near the back of the bay so that you know exactly how things went when you get around to putting things back on. I didn't have to remove much to get to the top three bolts, but I did have to move some things in the way. I guess it really just depends on how small you're hands are. For the top passenger side bolt: Remove the screws that secure the big hose going to the BMC along the top of the firewall. Pop the throttle cable out of its guides and move it out of the way as needed. To get the top center bolt out, remove the two nuts holding the transmission to the transmission mount. Place a jack underneath the rear of the transmission and jack it up until it can't go higher (Until it hits the chassis). To do this, Pull off the dust plate on the bottom front of transmission. Use a screwdriver to push the flex plate along and get to all four bolts. Once you've done this, now you can make sure the transmission is secure and remove the four bolts on the cross member. Once you remove the cross member bolts the transmission should be resting on one or two jacks. Using the jack(s) try to move the transmission backwards slowly and it should come right out. Slowly lower it down on the jack and remove any connections off the transmission that you may have forgot. Remove the torque converter and set it with the opening facing upwards so it won't leak oil everywhere. This is the time when an impact gun would come in handy but not quite necessary. I will post a link or two so you can see different methods. Once I tried it like this, it came out without a problem. But feel free to try whatever method suits you best. This isn't very difficult as you just need a drill or angle grinder and some bits. You have to make a total of three holes in order to mount these up. Leave it plugged in, just tuck it somewhere out of the way. It comes off with one bolt, save that bolt, you will be using it to mount you're clutch bracket.

First I found a drill bit just slightly bigger than the template hole, and drilled the two outer holes. The third hole took me longer just because I didn't have the proper tool(s) to make that big of a hole easily. I just used my biggest bit and kept hacking at it until it was big enough. Just mount the master cylinder up and have a friend inside car to pop on the pedal bracket. Screw on the two nuts in the engine bay for the master cylinder finger tight, then get inside the car and mount the clutch pedal bracket. So grab the bolt you had set aside and put it in to hold the bracket up. I used an angle grinder to cut the pedal with no problem. Now you're done with the pedals. 2) Wiring: This can be done later, but I chose to get it out of the way now. Keep in mind this is for S13, as S14 WILL be slightly different. Part A: For the reverse lights, all you do is find the row of three plugs on the back of the passenger engine bay fuse box. To do this, locate the plug that is underneath the row of three you were just looking at. Once you jumper them together, secure them nicely and tape them up so the weather can't get in. Just simply plug back in the piece you just jumpered and you're officially done with the wiring. DO NOT use twist caps to jump the wires like I did, I suggest soldering them or at the very least use a real connector LOL. I lined up the bushing and tapped it in with a rubber mallet until it was flush with the outer lip of the crank. I also used a socket the size of the bushing to get it in right. Just make sure not to force it in crooked, it will break pretty easily. This goes between the engine and transmission and it aligns on dowels. Make sure to double check all six bolts, you do not want a loose flywheel. Before you install the clutch break out the Brakleen (brake cleaner) and clean the flywheel real good. You want a clean surface for the clutch disc to grab. Using the alignment tool mount the clutch disc on the flywheel.

Once the new ECU was installed, there was no CEL and no more rough starts - the car behaves exactly the same as a stickshift that came out of the factory. The Manual ECU can be used with the automatic transmission wiring harness, it plugs straight in. If your car is a '95 the new ECU must be from a '95 (maybe 96?) If your car is a '96 the new ECU must be from a '96 (maybe 95?) If your car is a 97-98, the new ECU must be from a 97-98, or you can repin a 95-96 ECU to work in a 97-98 240sx (which is what we did).But you cannot use a S13 transmission in the S14 car because you will not have the sensor in the top of the transmission so that your ECU will work right,this is only true with the factory motor. The ABS cars use a shorter drive shaft in the back section. It's really best to get all your parts from a S13 if you're going 89 through 94 swap and if you're going a newer car use all S14 pieces, I have seen the petals interchanged but there are differences and you'll just have less headaches. I've done quite a few these conversions and deftly makes life easier. Also I just realized that I never said to bolt the 5 speed back to the engine.I am using this write-up which is very good by the way, but I have a few problems. I started with a non-turbo automatic s14 silvia and purchased a manual gearbox conversion kit out of a turbo silvia. The problem is the drive shaft is about 14mm too short and i can't get the starter motor to fit. Do you know if these parts are different between the turbo and non-turbo versions.They are independent publications and are not affiliated with or endorsed by Nissan or Infiniti. Material may not be copied or reprinted without written permission. Don't just use this write up, use every piece of information you can find. This write up should answer pretty much all questions about manual swap in S13. Also feel free to correct me or add information and I will edit my information.

Believe me, having the right tools for the job will mean the difference between two minutes and two days. Before anything comes off there are three things that need to be done: 1) Drain Transmission Fluid (To avoid a mess) 2) Remove Battery (For safety) and 3) Jack up your car and safely secure it with good jack stands. Before climbing under give the car a shake and confirm that it is on the jackstands solid. I also leave the jack under just in case and throw spare rims under just in case. 1) Remove all interior center console parts. This includes the center console, and shifter trim. This is pretty simple once you have the trim pieces gone. Just take off the little clip holding it to the shift linkage. Go back up top and remove the four screws holding the base of the shifter assembly on. First remove the four bolts holding the rear of the driveshaft to the differential. Once you get those off remove the two bolts holding the middle of the driveshaft. Six bolts and you're done. 4) Now let's unplug all the sensors on the transmission we can get to. Let's remove these lines and plug the two holes at the bottom of the radiator. Then last remove the clamp holding the rubber piece to the radiator. Before moving on, use the longer rubber hose off one of the two cooling lines to connect the two holes at the bottom of the radiator. Makes things simple, instead of JB Welding the holes shut. There are going to be some difficult ones, so be prepared. At one point I was ready to pull the engine just to get the transmission out, but it ended up not being as bad as I thought. I suggest having at least one friend to help from the top or the bottom either holding the socket on or whatever. Having a friend help makes this process much easier. To get to the top three bellhousing bolts you will need to remove a few small things in the way.

Mount up the clutch pressure plate and put in all the bolts. Finger tighten all of them evenly then torque in a criss cross pattern just like the flywheel bolts. Replace the throwout bearing on your transmission with a new one. You don't want to drop the transmission in a month due to a stupid bearing. Slip the old TOB off of the fork it's mounted on and then you can hammer off the old bearing from the carrier since the old bearing is garbage. Grease the splines the TOB goes on(Lithium grease works). To install the new bearing place a 2x4 over the new bearing on the carrier and hammer it on. Just make sure to put it on straight, don't bend bearing. Once pressed on check to see that the bearing is still functional. Install the carrier back on with the fork opposite of removal. Before we install the transmission remove the shifter. To remove just the shifter remove the C clip holding it in. Now we can get the transmission situated underneath the car. So now we need to install the transmission into the pilot bushing. This is a pain in the ass and pretty much just comes down to trial and error. It took me and my two friends about an hour to get it in. We tried using jacks to slowly raise it up and into position but in the end it was just easier to lift it up and into place. After a tip from a friend we jacked up the front of the motor (oil pan) with a jack and block of wood to give ourselves a better angle at the hole. We lifted it so the starter hump was somewhat facing the ground and turned it as we moved it up. Once you do get it mated on there don't let go and get a few bolts in to hold it on. Put a jack under the rear of transmission to hold it up once you get some bolts in. Also, make sure you lower the front of the engine back down. Reinstall the Starter and reconnect the wiring to it. Jack up the tail of your transmission and install the manual cross member. Secure it with the same four bolts as the automatic cross member.

Once it is all secure make sure the speed sensor is plugged in and the reverse light wiring you did earlier is connected to the reverse switch on the transmission. First I mated it to the transmission, then installed the middle mount (two bolts) then finally secured it to the driveshaft (4 bolts). Before you reinstall the shifter, put your transmission fluid in through the shifter hole. The manual transmission takes approximately 2.4 qts. of GL-4 rated gear oil. Do not use GL-5 rated gear oil, it will eat away at yellow metals (your synchros are yellow metal). Install shifter dust boot then rubber upper boot with finisher plate. Then Center console, Shift boot, and finally shift knob of your choice. At this point, reinstall everything you removed or moved in your engine bay and make sure everything is how it was before you started working on it. Run your clutch line from your master cylinder to the slave cylinder on the transmission. Fill master cylinder reservoir with DOT3 brake fluid. To bleed, open bleeder screw, have friend push and hold in clutch, close bleeder, release clutch pedal. Lower your car safely off of the jack stands or however you have it raised and put wheels back on if you took them off. Make sure everything you took off is back on and all bolts are secure. You shouldn't have a check engine light or anything like that on S13, while S14 is a different story. Take it for a drive and follow whatever your personal liking for clutch break-in if it is a new clutch. Here are some useful links to sites I used while I was researching and learning about the conversion: Powered by Froala Editor. Press question mark to learn the rest of the keyboard shortcuts Log in sign up User account menu 4 ka24de auto to manual swap question I plan on doing rear main seal and motor mounts. 2-How does the pilot bushing come out. The guy that sold me the 5spd told me to use the bread trick. 3-I plan on going exedy slave, master, clutch kit, and flywheel.

I saw bolt packs on ebay for auto to 5spd conversions, anyone used this. If not, where have you gotten your bolts from? 5-Anyone have experience with ebay short shift kits? 6-Any other tips for me to get it done in a day. They're like 90 bucks but just return it after you pull the bearing. People sometimes overlook those when doing the swap. They may last a forever or they may last a couple weeks depending on how hard you drive it. Might be something worth spending a little more cash on. I usually just take a chisel and break up the bushing. With enough stupid yelling and cursing it came out. For the dust plate, i saw a article from super street i think where they just bent the auto plate and made it work. I'll just put the stock shifter on for now and buy a name brand later then. If you don't, you're dropping the entire transmission again to get it on there. Using a 95' 240sx ODBII KA24DE This DVD will help anyone out wanting to swap a 5 speed in any type car - SOHC KA - SR20DET etc. You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to search the forums, post and respond to threads and polls, upload photos, send private messages, and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today. If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact contact us.We want to make sure everything is running perfectly smooth and that's where you can help. Thanks for your help and your continued loyalty to TST as we approach 15 years online! I did this on my s13 and mikes s13 Most of the install is strictly a pull out the old stuff put in the new stuff situation. There are a few points that people have issues with. Drilling the holes for your clutch master and hanging your clutch pedal are pretty straightforward.

On both S13 and S14 if you look under your dash against the firewall in drivers compartment drivers side you will see guides for the studs for the manual clutch pedal. You will also see a outline for the clutch master hole. Once you have done this you can hang your clutch pedal and mount the clutch master. Brake pedals, as you see above I listed them as optional. If you want to go all the way and install a manual brake pedal you have to drop your steering column. You will find four bolts on the underside that you have to remove once you have done that it will drop down. You can them remove your auto brake pedal and put in a manual brake pedal. If your lazy(I was) you will just take a dremel or powered die grinder and cut the auto brake pedal down to size. On your shift boots, in a S13 and s14 the trans hole is already there all you have to do is remove the auto trans shifter and bolt the lower shift boot and plate on the tunnel. On your upper shift boot on the S13 there is a inner plate around your auto trans shifter remove and you bolt your upper shift boot right to the underside of the console piece the screw clips are already there. Installing your clutch lines are straight forward the clips for them are already in place. Some people going for a complete stock factory look install the clutch dampner. Nissan installed it our cars to eliminate clutch pedal vibration at higher revs.You have now taken care of all mechanical install points that are not like a standard clutch job. You have to remove the automatic flywheel and install the pilot bushing. Once you have done this then you can install your flywheel with the manual flywheel bolts(longer). You can mount your clutch and install your trans and driveshaft. Now this is another area were some people go simple some people go all out. On S13 due to the fact its OBDI you can get away with running your auto ecu and you will not throw code.

On S14 you need to put in the 5 speed ecu because OBDII sees more things and will throw a code turning on your check engine light.If you are using a S14 trans in a S13 then you will have to put in the S13 manual trans speed sensor for it to read right and vice versa.These are actually colored pink and black and they are larger, on the auto trans harness, which you have already removed from your engine bay. On the engine bay side middle plug green and white wires). You will also take the plug from it as you will need it to hook it into the wiring on the car. Now some people have gone as far as completely adapting the auto harness to the manual trans with all gear sensors hooked up. There really is not a big need for this since it will not affect your smog or throw code. I did not bother with that due to the fact I would not start a manual car without my foot on the clutch anyways. Ok in your engine compartment at the relay box by your battery you are going to find a relay that is your auto trans in park relay. This tells your car that it is in park and will allow you to start your engine.This will allow you to start your car with the manual trans swap.It has no speed cut and has a 7200 rpm rev limit which is higher than the manual trans 6900 rpm limit. I have found this to make all the cars I have done the auto to manual swap on to be quicker than stock cars with 5 speeds.To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. If your car does nothing, you pass I'd check with your local track, even if it's drifting, what their requirement is. It's not hard to wire up a 2way switch in place of a clutch saftey switch, or you can always do it the rght way. Accedents happen, but I'd be pissed if you rear ended me in the staging lanes because you were to lazy to wire in a clutch safety switch.I would suggest just looking at the wiring diagrams in the FSM.