240sx manual swap guide

3 large plugs, and a small 2 wire plug (it’s not visible in the picture except by the two wires connected by the yellow splice). To make the car start, you’ll have to jumper those. The easiest way is to cannibalize the plug off the AT tranny harness. Then you can just connect the two wires together with a splice and plug it back into the chassis plug. This causes the car to believe it’s in Park at all times, allowing the top to function. It allows a wire to tap into another wire without having to cut it or solder it). The new wire was ran to one of the reverse plug wires. When the shifter is put in reverse, the sensor will complete the circuit and turn the reverse lights on. Nissan 2020: The Good, the Bad and the Ugly Review: The Best Disposable Shop Wipes They are independent publications and are not affiliated with or endorsed by Nissan or Infiniti. Material may not be copied or reprinted without written permission. One is Matt’s ’98 starfire blue S14, the other is my ’97 cobalt green S14. The procedure was basically the same for both cars, and some pictures may jump from one car to the other. The procedure is the same for OBDI cars except OBDI cars to not require the a Crank Angle Sensor. The parts necessary for the swaps were obtained from 2 separate OBDII ’96 S14s. OBDI transmissions could have been used, but a mount would have to be drilled for the CAS, and we didn’t want to worry about that. I will try to provide as many pictures as possible. WARNING: Before you start I suggest you read this entire writeup, and search for others - you will want all the info you can get. Also, plan on this taking longer than you think - some bolts are extremely hard to get to or break loose - and the transmissions are heavy and hard to stab in. Do not sacrifice safety for getting it done quickly. Although a 240sx only weighs 2800 lbs, it only takes 15 lbs of pressure applied correctly to break the human skull.

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Theres one on each side feeding from your radiator, they connect at the bottom. Remove the cotter pin on the linkage and then the shifter. Unscrew the shift lever and remove the metal plate underneath. At this time, you should be able to slide the transmission back out of the way if you have it supported by a jack. Drive the release bearing off the retainer and install the new bearing.Worm your way up under your dash and remove the green box up where the clutch pedal should be. Now, remove the cotter pin holding the brake pedal to the brake MC fork. Best way is to rotate it till the loop faces down, and take a curved instrument like a pick and pull it out. Now, you can undo the four bolts on the firewall and then the one bolt at the top of the brake pedal bracket. Now, take your new shiny (or rusty depending on where you got your pedal) brake pedal and put it up on the four studs of the brake booster. Thread the nuts back on, put the top bolt back in, tighten the nuts down, and then finally tighten the top nut down.Speed Sensor, Rotation sensor, Reverse light switch, Neutral position switch, 5th gear sensor. Jack the front of the motor up to tip it on an angle. I found it easiest to have two people on this part, one in the front and one on the tail shaft. Lift the transmission up and turn it so the bump in the bellhousing for the starter is pointing towards the ground. Get the input shaft lined up and slide the transmission in. Rotate the transmission into position and fasten one bolt to hold it. Put in the rest of the bolts and nuts which mount the transmission.Hook up the slave cylinder. Bleed the slave cylinder first then the bleeder lines. Bolt up the center coupling to the body 2-17mm.Bolt up the 4 bolts that secure the drive shaft to the differential. Make sure the yellow line on the driveshaft aligns with the yellow line on the differential.If you look at it, it will have 4 plugs hanging off of it.

Slowly lower the transmission part way down and disconnect any of the wiring that you did not get before. We actually wedged in a jack bar to keep the flywheel from spinning, and put 2 sockets and breaker bars on the flywheel (one braced against the ground tightening to keep the flywheel from spinning, and another to break the flywheel bolts). If you have a propane torch, heat these mofo-bolts up and that should help you break them loose some more. If you (unlike us) have an impact wrench this may come in handy. 15. Once the flywheel comes off, you should see a bushing sticking out about a. Sand inside your crankshaft with some 800 grit sandpaper, this will help the pilot bushing slide in if there is rust buildup.Then clean out inside there really well. Take a hammer and a 12mm socket and hammer your pilot bushing into your crankshaft. Get them on there tight because you don’t want your flywheel to come loose and have to do all the above all over.Clean off your flywheel by spraying it with some carb cleaner or something similar. 3. Next, use the alignment tool and affix your clutch disc over the flywheel. If not, I believe the side of the clutch that the springs sit further out on goes towards the back of the car. 4. Now put on the pressure plate. Keep the alignment tool in the clutch and slide the pressure plate over the clutch. Now you can take the clutch alignment tool out. 5. Take the throwout bearing off of your 5 speed transmission if it has one on there and replace it with a new one if you have it (it will come in a clutch kit). To change it you may need a wheel puller and a hammer to get it back together. 5 ?. Take the shifter off the 5 speed transmission if you haven’t already. 6. Next, it is time to pre-wire your 5 speed transmission. Please refer to the “wiring section” of this writeup to do this. You will want to wire in most of the sensors before you install the 5 speed into the car. The one sensor on top front of the transmission (CAS?

Also we found it best to take off the front wheels to give you a little more room to work in. Drain your transmission fluid from the draining bolt. 2. Remove the finisher plate from your center console. On the differential side there will be 4 bolts that hold the drive shaft to the diff. Remove these bolts, you will want your parking brake on to keep the driveshaft from spinning. To get to the upper bolts, take off your parking brake and your drive shaft will spin, then reapply the parking brake (not too hard there guys). Let the back side of the driveshaft lay on the floor. Also remove the small d-shaft support a thick wire X-member that keeps the drive shaft from whipping around if it breaks. Get them out of your engine bay. 9. Disconnect all the sensors you can from you transmission, and the back O2 sensor on your exhaust. Two of the sensors can be cut. 10. Now for one of the time consuming parts (this took us most of a day). You will have to weave your hands in everywhere to find and remove the bellhousing bolts holding the transmission bellhousing onto your engine. We used a ratcheting wrench on the top bolts, with a breaker bar and a jack running from underneath the car to the wrench on top of the engine. For some of the other bolts we used a socket (with swivels), and for still other bolts we used obstruction wrenches. Two of the bellhousing bolts run through the starter, disconnect the starter before you take out these bolts then remove the starter.We found that the best way to access the two top bellhousing bolts was thru the passenger side of the engine bay, behind the engine block - we found it necessary to move some lines and disconnect a heater hose. 11. Next, remove the bolts holding the tranny to the cross member, then jack up the back of the tranny and remove off the cross member. To get to the top ones, get a 27mm socket and turn the crank pulley.

Now with some wrestling, the brake assembly will slide out and there is no need to drop the steering column. Now install your new brake pedal and put the sensors back in. One sensor is for the brake lights, the other I believe is for cruise control. If you only have one bung in your new pedal I believe the cruise control sensor can be mounted on the cluth pedal. 9. Once the brake pedal is in it is time to install the clutch pedal. Luckily, Nissan left a guide under the dash that tells you where to drill. Drill out the two bolt holes and the larger center whole with a circle cutter drill bit and touch it up with a dremel. Slide your clutch assembly up there and bolt it in, attach the clutch master cylinder on the other side and cotter pin them together. 10. Run the clutch hardline from the clutch master cylinder to the clutch slave cylinder and by now you should have bolted the slave cylinder on the engine. At this time you can also eliminate the clutch dampening system by bypassing the large diameter hardline loop, and going directly from the hardline coming out of the master cylinder to the rubber line coming out of the slave cylinder. This will give your clutch pedal a better feel and less stuff for you to worry about. 11. Reinstall the drive shaft, then fill the transmission up with gear oil (2.4 quarts max) from where the shifter sits, and then reinstall the shifter. Two of the shifter bolts you will have to be under the car to get to. 12. Bleed your clutch lines and adjust your clutch pedal to where you want it. 13. Re-install the shifter rubber boot, the center console, and the shifter finisher plate and leather boot. 14. Lower your car onto the ground (we ended up with our car teeter-tottering on 2 jack stands which was kind of funny and dangerous at the same time) 15. Start your car and see what happens. 16.

) you must leave out otherwise it will catch on the flywheel and break into lots of pieces, or rub on top of the transmission bay - make sure you put it back in later, otherwise your car will not work. 7. This is the hardest step to do. This step took us a good 6 hours and multiple attempts. Some people say that the tranny must be rotated while jacking it up so the starter hump points down, the rotated into place once it is mated to the transmission, we did not do this and still got it into place. We finally got it to work by: Putting one jack in the middle of the 5 speed (at its center of gravity on a flat spot) and another jack at the very back of the transmission. This allows you to wag the tranny side to side and up and down. Remove the exhaust piping that runs from the header to the cat so you can have more room to slide the transmission in there, you may want to have a rubber mallet to hammer the back of the transmission in. We had to keep going up and down with the transmission. Do not let the transmission shaft handle a whole lot of weight otherwise it will bend the shaft or break your clutch.We found the clutch part out the hard way. Bolt in all the bellhousing bolts and put on the starter. Then, slowly raise the back of the transmission while you lower the front of the engine and reattach the cross member and bolt the cross member back in to hold the back of the transmission up. You should now be able to take all the jacks out from under the transmission and put back in all sensors and vac. lines. 8. Now it’s time to install the clutch and brake pedals. First do the brake pedal otherwise the clutch pedal will get in the way. There are 4 bolts holding the brake assembly to the firewall, and one holding the brake assembly up under the dash. Remove all of these, and the two sensors on the brake pedal, and the cotter pin holding the brake pedal to the booster.

Do you know if these parts are different between the turbo and non-turbo versions.They are independent publications and are not affiliated with or endorsed by Nissan or Infiniti. In order to stay competitive, it is important to keep up with the latest modifications and upgrades—not to mention regular maintenance. One of the most important upgrades you can make to an automatic Nissan 240SX is a swap to 5 speeds. If you want optimal power, speed, and performance, a 240SX 5-speed swap is critical. Fortunately, we provide the products and resources to make your conversion painless. As you might imagine, finding those parts can be challenging. Fortunately, we carry everything that you need so you do not have to bother scouring the internet or local shops for the parts you require. We offer top-of-the-line clutch lines, clutch fork pivots, cylinders, and much more, all at the lowest prices. If you are not sure how to get started, our expert staff will be more than happy to provide you with reliable information. We have an extensive inventory, and we specialize in Nissan 240SX parts, so place your order today. However, there are ways to cut down on prices drastically. For starters, you are here, so that is a step in the right direction. We keep our prices low because we know that is what gains us loyal customers. You will not find a better deal on Nissan 240SX 5-speed swap parts. When you also consider our top-notch customer service, our generous sales, and our rewards program, it becomes clear that Enjuku Racing is the preferred choice for Nissan parts for a reason. Our free rewards program gives you the opportunity to gain exclusive coupon codes that can reduce your 240SX manual swap costs substantially. All you need to do is sign up for a free account and then start collecting rewards by liking and sharing pages, placing frequent orders, writing product reviews, and more. You are going to be surprised by how easy it is to keep your upgrades affordable!

Just because our prices are low does not mean that we cut corners. We only sell products that we stand behind so you can order confidently. Our 240SX 5-speed swap parts are the best on the market. If you have any questions about them, please do not hesitate to call our expert customer service, and we will be happy to give you any information you require. We want to you to maximize your car’s performance, and that means using quality components. We recognize that business longevity requires treating customers with the respect that we would expect. Our knowledgeable staff is more than willing to help out if you have any questions, so feel free to give us a call at (352) 241-8399 if you have any questions. A 240SX 5-speed swap can make a huge difference in improving your car’s performance, so place your order today and get the best deal from Enjuku Racing. Don't just use this write up, use every piece of information you can find. This write up should answer pretty much all questions about manual swap in S13. Also feel free to correct me or add information and I will edit my information. Believe me, having the right tools for the job will mean the difference between two minutes and two days. Before anything comes off there are three things that need to be done: 1) Drain Transmission Fluid (To avoid a mess) 2) Remove Battery (For safety) and 3) Jack up your car and safely secure it with good jack stands. Before climbing under give the car a shake and confirm that it is on the jackstands solid. I also leave the jack under just in case and throw spare rims under just in case. 1) Remove all interior center console parts. This includes the center console, and shifter trim. This is pretty simple once you have the trim pieces gone. Just take off the little clip holding it to the shift linkage. Go back up top and remove the four screws holding the base of the shifter assembly on. First remove the four bolts holding the rear of the driveshaft to the differential.

We got a CEL when using the Auto ECU, but I have heard you can wire the CEL light to the airbag or something to only light up when you start the car, or just put a resistor in the CEL circuit. 17. Drive it around the block, and take it easy until your clutch is broken in (about 500 miles) Wiring Visit: for wiring instructions. Any other sensors that were on the auto, but not on the 5 speed can be cut off and discarded - I believe there were 2 or 3 of them on the passenger side of the bellhousing. Results: The car ran fine, the transmission is very loud when the interior pieces are not installed, and you will get a CEL. But now you get to shift your car yourself. 5th gear on Matt's car will grind if you do not shift just right (the transmission is used, so some quirks are to be expected). Also we have not figured out how to get cruise control working - so that shouldn't be too hard. My car is not 100% swapped yet, but due to some previous-owner installed car alarm, I can't get my radio to work. Once the new ECU was installed, there was no CEL and no more rough starts - the car behaves exactly the same as a stick shift that came out of the factory. The Manual ECU can be used with the automatic transmission wiring harness. If your car is a '95 the new ECU must be from a '95 (maybe 96?) If your car is a '96 the new ECU must be from a '96 (maybe 95?) If your car is a 97-98, the new ECU must be from a 97-98, or you can re-pin a 95-96 ECU to work in a 97-98 240sx (which is what we did on Matt's car). In order to re-pin it, follow the link here: JWT Wiring pdf Once it is re-pinned, you may need to buy a new rear O2 sensor in order to clear all CELS (that is mentioned in the link) Sorry, I'm not to NICO savvy - I am mostly on local forums and don't visit this site a whole lot. If this is not removed then it could slip while driving and your key will be stuck in the ignition.

You may say that removeing it is common sense but so is removeing the auto shifter and everybody mentioned that. I believe the wiring is extremly similar, but some connectors look different and some wires are different colors. Everything works great, no 5th gear grind like on the starfire blue kouki. The only annoying thing is the clutch pedal.it is really soft, and it's a paint to adjust the pedal. In the near future I am going to swap in a 5 speed ECU which will get rid of all the codes. Once the new ECU was installed, there was no CEL and no more rough starts - the car behaves exactly the same as a stickshift that came out of the factory. The Manual ECU can be used with the automatic transmission wiring harness, it plugs straight in. If your car is a '95 the new ECU must be from a '95 (maybe 96?) If your car is a '96 the new ECU must be from a '96 (maybe 95?) If your car is a 97-98, the new ECU must be from a 97-98, or you can repin a 95-96 ECU to work in a 97-98 240sx (which is what we did).But you cannot use a S13 transmission in the S14 car because you will not have the sensor in the top of the transmission so that your ECU will work right,this is only true with the factory motor. The ABS cars use a shorter drive shaft in the back section. It's really best to get all your parts from a S13 if you're going 89 through 94 swap and if you're going a newer car use all S14 pieces, I have seen the petals interchanged but there are differences and you'll just have less headaches. I've done quite a few these conversions and deftly makes life easier. Also I just realized that I never said to bolt the 5 speed back to the engine.I am using this write-up which is very good by the way, but I have a few problems. I started with a non-turbo automatic s14 silvia and purchased a manual gearbox conversion kit out of a turbo silvia. The problem is the drive shaft is about 14mm too short and i can't get the starter motor to fit.

Once you get those off remove the two bolts holding the middle of the driveshaft. Kodak 5-26-11 113 by roushman90, on Flickr 4) Now let's unplug all the sensors on the transmission we can get to. Let's remove these lines and plug the two holes at the bottom of the radiator. Then last remove the clamp holding the rubber piece to the radiator. Before moving on, use the longer rubber hose off one of the two cooling lines to connect the two holes at the bottom of the radiator. Makes things simple, instead of JB Welding the holes shut. There are going to be some difficult ones, so be prepared. At one point I was ready to pull the engine just to get the transmission out, but it ended up not being as bad as I thought. I suggest having at least one friend to help from the top or the bottom either holding the socket on or whatever. Having a friend help makes this process much easier. To get to the top three bellhousing bolts you will need to remove a few small things in the way. I suggest you take some pictures of how everything is near the back of the bay so that you know exactly how things went when you get around to putting things back on. I didn't have to remove much to get to the top three bolts, but I did have to move some things in the way. I guess it really just depends on how small you're hands are. Kodak 5-26-11 136 by roushman90, on Flickr For the top passenger side bolt: Remove the screws that secure the big hose going to the BMC along the top of the firewall. Pop the throttle cable out of its guides and move it out of the way as needed. Kodak 5-26-11 120 by roushman90, on Flickr To get the top center bolt out, remove the two nuts holding the transmission to the transmission mount. Place a jack underneath the rear of the transmission and jack it up until it can't go higher (Until it hits the chassis). To do this, Pull off the dust plate on the bottom front of transmission. Use a screwdriver to push the flex plate along and get to all four bolts.

Once you've done this, now you can make sure the transmission is secure and remove the four bolts on the cross member. Once you remove the cross member bolts the transmission should be resting on one or two jacks. Using the jack(s) try to move the transmission backwards slowly and it should come right out. Slowly lower it down on the jack and remove any connections off the transmission that you may have forgot. Remove the torque converter and set it with the opening facing upwards so it won't leak oil everywhere. Kodak 5-26-11 124 by roushman90, on Flickr This is the time when an impact gun would come in handy but not quite necessary. I will post a link or two so you can see different methods. Once I tried it like this, it came out without a problem. But feel free to try whatever method suits you best. This isn't very difficult as you just need a drill or angle grinder and some bits. You have to make a total of three holes in order to mount these up. Leave it plugged in, just tuck it somewhere out of the way. Kodak 5-26-11 061 by roushman90, on Flickr It comes off with one bolt, save that bolt, you will be using it to mount you're clutch bracket. Kodak 5-26-11 062 by roushman90, on Flickr Now for the three holes. First I found a drill bit just slightly bigger than the template hole, and drilled the two outer holes. The third hole took me longer just because I didn't have the proper tool(s) to make that big of a hole easily. I just used my biggest bit and kept hacking at it until it was big enough. Kodak 5-26-11 087 by roushman90, on Flickr Just mount the master cylinder up and have a friend inside car to pop on the pedal bracket. Screw on the two nuts in the engine bay for the master cylinder finger tight, then get inside the car and mount the clutch pedal bracket. So grab the bolt you had set aside and put it in to hold the bracket up. I used an angle grinder to cut the pedal with no problem. Now you're done with the pedals.

2) Wiring: This can be done later, but I chose to get it out of the way now. Keep in mind this is for S13, as S14 WILL be slightly different. Part A: For the reverse lights, all you do is find the row of three plugs on the back of the passenger engine bay fuse box. To do this, locate the plug that is underneath the row of three you were just looking at. Once you jumper them together, secure them nicely and tape them up so the weather can't get in. Just simply plug back in the piece you just jumpered and you're officially done with the wiring. I lined up the bushing and tapped it in with a rubber mallet until it was flush with the outer lip of the crank. I also used a socket the size of the bushing to get it in right. Just make sure not to force it in crooked, it will break pretty easily. This goes between the engine and transmission and it aligns on dowels. Make sure to double check all six bolts, you do not want a loose flywheel. Before you install the clutch break out the Brakleen (brake cleaner) and clean the flywheel real good. You want a clean surface for the clutch disc to grab. Using the alignment tool mount the clutch disc on the flywheel. Mount up the clutch pressure plate and put in all the bolts. Finger tighten all of them evenly then torque in a criss cross pattern just like the flywheel bolts. Replace the throwout bearing on your transmission with a new one. You don't want to drop the transmission in a month due to a stupid bearing. Slip the old TOB off of the fork it's mounted on and then you can hammer off the old bearing from the carrier since the old bearing is garbage. Grease the splines the TOB goes on(Lithium grease works). To install the new bearing place a 2x4 over the new bearing on the carrier and hammer it on. Just make sure to put it on straight, don't bend bearing. Once pressed on check to see that the bearing is still functional. Install the carrier back on with the fork opposite of removal.

Before we install the transmission remove the shifter. To remove just the shifter remove the C clip holding it in. Now we can get the transmission situated underneath the car. So now we need to install the transmission into the pilot bushing. This is a pain in the ass and pretty much just comes down to trial and error. It took me and my two friends about an hour to get it in. We tried using jacks to slowly raise it up and into position but in the end it was just easier to lift it up and into place. After a tip from a friend we jacked up the front of the motor (oil pan) with a jack and block of wood to give ourselves a better angle at the hole. We lifted it so the starter hump was somewhat facing the ground and turned it as we moved it up. Once you do get it mated on there don't let go and get a few bolts in to hold it on. Put a jack under the rear of transmission to hold it up once you get some bolts in. Also, make sure you lower the front of the engine back down. Reinstall the Starter and reconnect the wiring to it. Jack up the tail of your transmission and install the manual cross member. Secure it with the same four bolts as the automatic cross member. Once it is all secure make sure the speed sensor is plugged in and the reverse light wiring you did earlier is connected to the reverse switch on the transmission. First I mated it to the transmission, then installed the middle mount (two bolts) then finally secured it to the driveshaft (4 bolts). Before you reinstall the shifter, put your transmission fluid in through the shifter hole. The manual transmission takes approximately 2.4 qts. of GL-4 rated gear oil. Do not use GL-5 rated gear oil, it will eat away at yellow metals (your synchros are yellow metal). Install shifter dust boot then rubber upper boot with finisher plate. Then Center console, Shift boot, and finally shift knob of your choice.

At this point, reinstall everything you removed or moved in your engine bay and make sure everything is how it was before you started working on it. Run your clutch line from your master cylinder to the slave cylinder on the transmission. Fill master cylinder reservoir with DOT3 brake fluid. To bleed, open bleeder screw, have friend push and hold in clutch, close bleeder, release clutch pedal. Lower your car safely off of the jack stands or however you have it raised and put wheels back on if you took them off. Make sure everything you took off is back on and all bolts are secure. You shouldn't have a check engine light or anything like that on S13, while S14 is a different story. Take it for a drive and follow whatever your personal liking for clutch break-in if it is a new clutch. Here are some links to sites I used while I was researching and learning about this conversion. Last edited by roushman90; 06-16-2011 at 06:19 PM.But, I had a hard time finding S13 specific wiring pictures, so when this write up is done, it should have everything you need to know about the conversion. Thinking about doing this on my car but was wondering how clean it will look thanks Thinking about doing this on my car but was wondering how clean it will look thanks Part B: To make the car start, we have to trick it into thinking it is in P (Park) at all times. Just simply plug back in the piece you just jumpered and you're officially done with the wiring. Pictures: Part B: To make the car start, we have to trick it into thinking it is in P (Park) at all times. Just simply plug back in the piece you just jumpered and you're officially done with the wiring. Pictures: I'm not sure if the wiring is different for the CA motor? Also the auto ECU has no speed limiter and has better fuel maps if I remember correctly. Also the auto ECU has no speed limiter and has better fuel maps if I remember correctly. The idle does drop but not to stall that is a gross over exaggeration of the drop.