240sx manual crossmember

This write up should answer pretty much all questions about manual swap in S13. Also feel free to correct me or add information and I will edit my information. Believe me, having the right tools for the job will mean the difference between two minutes and two days. Before anything comes off there are three things that need to be done: 1) Drain Transmission Fluid (To avoid a mess) 2) Remove Battery (For safety) and 3) Jack up your car and safely secure it with good jack stands. Before climbing under give the car a shake and confirm that it is on the jackstands solid. I also leave the jack under just in case and throw spare rims under just in case. 1) Remove all interior center console parts. This includes the center console, and shifter trim. This is pretty simple once you have the trim pieces gone. Just take off the little clip holding it to the shift linkage. Go back up top and remove the four screws holding the base of the shifter assembly on. First remove the four bolts holding the rear of the driveshaft to the differential. Once you get those off remove the two bolts holding the middle of the driveshaft. Six bolts and you're done. 4) Now let's unplug all the sensors on the transmission we can get to. Let's remove these lines and plug the two holes at the bottom of the radiator. Then last remove the clamp holding the rubber piece to the radiator. Before moving on, use the longer rubber hose off one of the two cooling lines to connect the two holes at the bottom of the radiator. Makes things simple, instead of JB Welding the holes shut. There are going to be some difficult ones, so be prepared. At one point I was ready to pull the engine just to get the transmission out, but it ended up not being as bad as I thought. I suggest having at least one friend to help from the top or the bottom either holding the socket on or whatever. Having a friend help makes this process much easier.

• 240sx manual transmission crossmember, 240sx manual crossmember.

I will include brand new FOUR cross member bolts (read AD!).” ”. I will include brand new FOUR cross member bolts (read AD!).” ” A 7% sales tax will be charged to all customers in the state of Iowa. I think the auto member slopes the other way, but I am sure with slight modification it'd work. But, just be patient and get the right cross member. They are independent publications and are not affiliated with or endorsed by Nissan or Infiniti. Material may not be copied or reprinted without written permission. One center hole added for use with universal urethane tranny mounts, if you like. We make sure that all our products can withstand the constant battle that you put your vehicle through. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. It may not display this or other websites correctly. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. I've read in a few threads that the auto crossmember can be flipped or something to accomodate the manual tranny, but most parts list threads say you need the manual crossmember.Come join the discussion about performance, builds, engine swaps, turbos, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more. For a better experience, we recommend using another browser. Learn more Facebook Email or phone Password Forgotten account. Sign Up See more of Techno Toy Tuning on Facebook Log In or Create New Account See more of Techno Toy Tuning on Facebook Log In Forgotten account.This week Tim goes over final fabrication and install for the Z's new carbon fenders. We are now offering the Super Small Brake Booster as a direct replacement for the 1.6 NA Miata! We’ve only been able to check fitment on our 1.6 so far but it may fit the 1.8 as well. You can check by measuring your boosters bolt pattern. This convenience item means no more driving all over town to try and get that one you found on craigslist. Don't just use this write up, use every piece of information you can find.

It comes off with one bolt, save that bolt, you will be using it to mount you're clutch bracket. First I found a drill bit just slightly bigger than the template hole, and drilled the two outer holes. The third hole took me longer just because I didn't have the proper tool(s) to make that big of a hole easily. I just used my biggest bit and kept hacking at it until it was big enough. Just mount the master cylinder up and have a friend inside car to pop on the pedal bracket. Screw on the two nuts in the engine bay for the master cylinder finger tight, then get inside the car and mount the clutch pedal bracket. So grab the bolt you had set aside and put it in to hold the bracket up. I used an angle grinder to cut the pedal with no problem. Now you're done with the pedals. 2) Wiring: This can be done later, but I chose to get it out of the way now. Keep in mind this is for S13, as S14 WILL be slightly different. Part A: For the reverse lights, all you do is find the row of three plugs on the back of the passenger engine bay fuse box. To do this, locate the plug that is underneath the row of three you were just looking at. Once you jumper them together, secure them nicely and tape them up so the weather can't get in. Just simply plug back in the piece you just jumpered and you're officially done with the wiring. DO NOT use twist caps to jump the wires like I did, I suggest soldering them or at the very least use a real connector LOL. I lined up the bushing and tapped it in with a rubber mallet until it was flush with the outer lip of the crank. I also used a socket the size of the bushing to get it in right. Just make sure not to force it in crooked, it will break pretty easily. This goes between the engine and transmission and it aligns on dowels. Make sure to double check all six bolts, you do not want a loose flywheel. Before you install the clutch break out the Brakleen (brake cleaner) and clean the flywheel real good.

To get to the top three bellhousing bolts you will need to remove a few small things in the way. I suggest you take some pictures of how everything is near the back of the bay so that you know exactly how things went when you get around to putting things back on. I didn't have to remove much to get to the top three bolts, but I did have to move some things in the way. I guess it really just depends on how small you're hands are. For the top passenger side bolt: Remove the screws that secure the big hose going to the BMC along the top of the firewall. Pop the throttle cable out of its guides and move it out of the way as needed. To get the top center bolt out, remove the two nuts holding the transmission to the transmission mount. Place a jack underneath the rear of the transmission and jack it up until it can't go higher (Until it hits the chassis). To do this, Pull off the dust plate on the bottom front of transmission. Use a screwdriver to push the flex plate along and get to all four bolts. Once you've done this, now you can make sure the transmission is secure and remove the four bolts on the cross member. Once you remove the cross member bolts the transmission should be resting on one or two jacks. Using the jack(s) try to move the transmission backwards slowly and it should come right out. Slowly lower it down on the jack and remove any connections off the transmission that you may have forgot. Remove the torque converter and set it with the opening facing upwards so it won't leak oil everywhere. This is the time when an impact gun would come in handy but not quite necessary. I will post a link or two so you can see different methods. Once I tried it like this, it came out without a problem. But feel free to try whatever method suits you best. This isn't very difficult as you just need a drill or angle grinder and some bits. You have to make a total of three holes in order to mount these up. Leave it plugged in, just tuck it somewhere out of the way.

Jack up the tail of your transmission and install the manual cross member. Secure it with the same four bolts as the automatic cross member. Once it is all secure make sure the speed sensor is plugged in and the reverse light wiring you did earlier is connected to the reverse switch on the transmission. First I mated it to the transmission, then installed the middle mount (two bolts) then finally secured it to the driveshaft (4 bolts). Before you reinstall the shifter, put your transmission fluid in through the shifter hole. The manual transmission takes approximately 2.4 qts. of GL-4 rated gear oil. Do not use GL-5 rated gear oil, it will eat away at yellow metals (your synchros are yellow metal). Install shifter dust boot then rubber upper boot with finisher plate. Then Center console, Shift boot, and finally shift knob of your choice. At this point, reinstall everything you removed or moved in your engine bay and make sure everything is how it was before you started working on it. Run your clutch line from your master cylinder to the slave cylinder on the transmission. Fill master cylinder reservoir with DOT3 brake fluid. To bleed, open bleeder screw, have friend push and hold in clutch, close bleeder, release clutch pedal. Lower your car safely off of the jack stands or however you have it raised and put wheels back on if you took them off. Make sure everything you took off is back on and all bolts are secure. You shouldn't have a check engine light or anything like that on S13, while S14 is a different story. Take it for a drive and follow whatever your personal liking for clutch break-in if it is a new clutch. Here are some useful links to sites I used while I was researching and learning about the conversion: Powered by Froala Editor. One center hole added for use with universal urethane tranny mounts, if you like. This convenience item means no more driving all over town to try and get that one you found on craigslist.

You want a clean surface for the clutch disc to grab. Using the alignment tool mount the clutch disc on the flywheel. Mount up the clutch pressure plate and put in all the bolts. Finger tighten all of them evenly then torque in a criss cross pattern just like the flywheel bolts. Replace the throwout bearing on your transmission with a new one. You don't want to drop the transmission in a month due to a stupid bearing. Slip the old TOB off of the fork it's mounted on and then you can hammer off the old bearing from the carrier since the old bearing is garbage. Grease the splines the TOB goes on(Lithium grease works). To install the new bearing place a 2x4 over the new bearing on the carrier and hammer it on. Just make sure to put it on straight, don't bend bearing. Once pressed on check to see that the bearing is still functional. Install the carrier back on with the fork opposite of removal. Before we install the transmission remove the shifter. To remove just the shifter remove the C clip holding it in. Now we can get the transmission situated underneath the car. So now we need to install the transmission into the pilot bushing. This is a pain in the ass and pretty much just comes down to trial and error. It took me and my two friends about an hour to get it in. We tried using jacks to slowly raise it up and into position but in the end it was just easier to lift it up and into place. After a tip from a friend we jacked up the front of the motor (oil pan) with a jack and block of wood to give ourselves a better angle at the hole. We lifted it so the starter hump was somewhat facing the ground and turned it as we moved it up. Once you do get it mated on there don't let go and get a few bolts in to hold it on. Put a jack under the rear of transmission to hold it up once you get some bolts in. Also, make sure you lower the front of the engine back down. Reinstall the Starter and reconnect the wiring to it.

You need to short some wires under the radio and near the fuse box to bypass the clutch safety switch, and the park switch that is no longer connected to anything from the auto. I vaguely remember something about using several zip ties to make the park switch stay in the open position, so it doesn't lock out the ignition. Manual and auto ignition cylinders are different, and if you don't want to change your keys, you have to do this. This is probably incomplete because it's almost 2AM here, but that's some general guidance. You don't want to know what happens if those break. Also the bell housing bolts are different for the manual transmission. Depending on if your car has abs or not the driveshaft can be very slightly different. Since you have the tranny out take the time to replace all the seals and that hard to reach stuff. Sucks when it's late and you have to wait until the next day to get more. This amount is subject to change until you make payment. For additional information, see the Global Shipping Program terms and conditions - opens in a new window or tab This amount is subject to change until you make payment. For additional information, see the Global Shipping Program terms and conditions - opens in a new window or tab This amount is subject to change until you make payment. If you reside in an EU member state besides UK, import VAT on this purchase is not recoverable. For additional information, see the Global Shipping Program terms and conditions - opens in a new window or tab Delivery times may vary, especially during peak periods. Contact the seller - opens in a new window or tab and request a postage method to your location. Delivery times may vary, especially during peak periods. If you don't follow our item condition policy for returns, you may not receive a full refund.

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From one piece solid steel and powdercoated in fine wrinkle black. It may not display this or other websites correctly. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. Very similar, but been told to use an S13 one on my auto-manual conversion on my 32 as i've tried a 32 manual one and the bolt holes dont line up. Would have thought i could use a 32 one, but it just doesnt fit. No, you is wrong mofo, the S13 and R32 MANAUL are the same, the R32 AUTO shell is totally different. So if your converting your AUTO R32 to manaual then you need an R33 crossmeber, but if your using a small casing gearbox it will need modifiying. Better get the welder out A s13 one will not work, you need an R33 crossmember. So nothing bolts straight up and i need to modify a R33 GTSt manual cross member right.Yeah, the tunnel in your car is far far wider then a stock R32 manaual or s13, which is great if your putting a R33 Gearbox in your car as it bolts strait up. I'm fairly sure when you bolt the R33 GTST member to the box it will be too far forward, so you have to cut and shut it a bit. Loads of people have done it tho, not hard to do Clarkey.I'm fairly sure when you bolt the R33 GTST member to the box it will be too far forward, so you have to cut and shut it a bit. Loads of people have done it tho, not hard to do Clarkey. R33 box is the best option as its bigger and stronger but it comes at a price, you also need a prop shaft making.I'll probably get a 33 box at a later date, i've fitted the 32 box in now so for the time being i'll have to stick with it. I should be able to use the standard 32 manual prop right. Yeah, GTSt diff, and expected power only 280-300 ish. Ok, i've found 5 or 6 sites on google that state an S13 one WILL go straight on now. Does anyone have a picture of an s13 crossmember i could compare to the r32 one? Maybe someone can add to this, I dont have any pics of any auto or R33 cross members. The auto 32 one is exactly the same as the manual one.

That S13 one on there looks pretty much spot on, should move the mount forwards enough to fit on the body. If you could get a pic up that would be great, I just picked up a auto 32 project and would like to know what i got to do to manual swap it. CheersDriftworks Ltd are regulated by the Finance Conduct Authority. CCL No.648295. Place a part request and let us do the searching for you. We help people find quality used auto parts from reputable salvage yards throughout. The transmission mount bolt pattern retains a Toyota 4 bolt style mount to work with either the early stock Toyota rubber mount or our Urethane trans mount. The two bottom stud patterns DO NOT interchange on our cross member. If you have a later model manual transmission, you will want our hybrid mount (T-UTM-S4). If you push the engine forwards to fit the shifter as the defining element, our cross member and driveshaft will not be correct. Literally every nut and bolt is here for you with the exception of the tailshaft, manual harness is also included however not pictured. Can come with engine mounts for extra please note does not come with rack or lines Manual fluid hardlines from slave to master with dampner 100. Press question mark to learn the rest of the keyboard shortcuts Log in sign up User account menu 5 S14 Manual Swap It's not terrible if you have any mechanical experience. Check forum posts for more details, like adypants said.Also people with bigger feet who have driven my car complain, because the auto brake pedal's design is a bit closer to the clutch pedal than the proper manual brake pedal should be.Try not to drop transmission on your friend who is helping you's face. 5a. remove auto shifter linkage and shifter from car.This may need an impact gun or someone on the front of the motor using a tool to keep it from spinning.Its been like 10 years since the last one I did, I don't remember the wiring. I know you have to tuck away the harness for the auto computer.

Because of the spread of Coronavirus and a stay-at-home order in California, o ur shop location is not open to the public for will-call until further notice, no exceptions. Aaron is available for tech questions extended hours via cell phone and text. We are only offering DHL, UPS or FedEx for International shipments at this time. USPS Priority Mail and Express is only available for shipments in the USA. We can not guarantee package delivery times right now, even for Express, Next Day or 2ND Day. Thank you so much for your support over the years, and your patience at this time. We will get through these difficult times, and we will always do our best for you. We can not ship international orders to domestic freight forwarders. Items that have the free shipping logo displayed will only qualify for shipping inside the US lower 48 states. All prices shown on our website are in US Dollars. We've made this trans cross members to fit the Toyota R154 and W58 manual transmission swaps for the S chassis when a JZ motor swap is done with our JZ motor brackets. The transmission mount bolt pattern retains a Toyota 4 bolt style mount to work with either the stock Toyota rubber mount or our Urethane trans mount. Toyota has two different mounts, an early style (typical to the MK3 supra) and a late style. The late style with the larger mounting pattern will not directly fit this cross member (we offern an adapter mount). If you would like a urethane transmission mount, you will want our Toyota Series 1 (T-UTM-S1) for the early style manual transmissions. If you have a later model manual transmission, you will want our hybrid mount (T-UTM-S4). We've also included new bolting hardware for the bracket to the chassis to make the install a bit easier. Urethane trans mount not included with cross member. Kit Includes: 1 new Cross Member 4 New chassis bolts 4 Washers. Xcessive S Chassis to VQ (CD009) Transmission Cross Member.

There are several ways to do this, it isn't uncommon for swappers to use the S13 trans' exhaust hanger location, which is nearly dead on to the S12 chassis mount location, Or a custom dogbone-style mount could be made, in this pic you can see the exhaust hanger location that is used in the above pic,.IF you have a Mark 2 manual trans car, (idk.That is my transmission mount to accommodate both my RB swaps. It may give an idea to another of how to make a mount but in relation to a KA, I cannot vouch that it will work. It utilizes the stock bolt holes in the chassis to mount it as well.