240sx auto to manual swap price

Last edited by CHARLIE2020; 03-04-2005 at 02:01 PM.Some friends and I just finished the 5 speed swap on my car and its a pain. Its not thats its all that hard, its just annoying and tedious. Hopefully a 91-93 240sx coupe 5spd will show up in the near future, thanks for the advice guys. If you really have a hard time finding someone to do the conversion for you hit me up. We will be doing SR swaps RB swaps and other cool stuff that will be out of the ordinary. Including stuff like ITB NA SR's ( Partners car as seen at the Eibach meet). I have swapped way to many auto's and all I can say is if you do it the right way its not that much pain at all. Your toughest part is using the right tool to cut the hole for your clutch master and pedal. We nailed that one and no we are not giving away that secret.Do it right and the stock manual brake pedal rubber fits right on. Also on a S13 you really do not need the manual ecu, auto ecu is actually a performance upgrade for the KA. Why ? you might ask, well because the speed cut does not exist in the auto ecu. On top of the that the tuning curve on the auto ecu is different due to the way auto trannies work. It all translates out to a little more performance for free. If you do go SR then the swap is a breeze as well because you get a lot of the parts needed for the swap on the clip i.e. tranny crossmember, tranny, lower shift boot, backing plate is already with the engine, clutch pedal from the clip, lower shift boot from the clip, driveshaft from the clip. All you need to go out and get is the clutch line and the upper shift boot. Yes you can use the clutch master from the clip and the slave. In fact I like buying auto cars they are usually in better condition because the drivers do not beat them as much as 5 speed cars. If you have found a really nice clean auto car for a decent deal buy it. YOu may be searching for a long time to find the 5 speed version. Its like buying a base model when you want a se no sunroof.

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Press question mark to learn the rest of the keyboard shortcuts Log in sign up User account menu 2 Cost involved in auto to manual transmission swap? Or if I had a shop do it all what would I be looking at. I'm just curious and I know it's impossible to tell me exact prices. I've done the actual swap but most everything came with my SR so I only had to find the pedals and lines. A shop would charge a fortune, its not a difficult task if you're used to turning a wrench.I figured a shop would be expensive, but also thought with it being so common a swap that maybe they wouldn't charge a crazy amount. Acquiring the parts and the time to do it will be the fun part. There's a really good write up on nicoclub that you should read. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. It may not display this or other websites correctly. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. But I contacted a performance shop I know a couple guys out of, and as far as I know they will do the swap for me for 500 dollars flat and that is including the parts and labor.I was going to sell it to a friend who wanted to do this swap. I was going to sell it to a friend who wanted to do this swap.Come join the discussion about performance, builds, engine swaps, turbos, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more. So my question is what's a good estimate on how much it would cost to have an autoshop do it for you. Thanks in advance. P.S. I'm going to check in the morning how much shop's charge for labor, just seeing how much it normally goes for so I don't get ripped. If I end up buying the car I'll probably wait until I'm able to do a sr20det swap to save money instead of doing it right off the bat, I'm not sure though. If your gonna do it at any autoshop, its gonna cost you a grip because autoshops can rip you off like that. I cant really tell you how much ittle be because price may vary.

All you need to do is sign up for a free account and then start collecting rewards by liking and sharing pages, placing frequent orders, writing product reviews, and more. You are going to be surprised by how easy it is to keep your upgrades affordable! Just because our prices are low does not mean that we cut corners. We only sell products that we stand behind so you can order confidently. Our 240SX 5-speed swap parts are the best on the market. If you have any questions about them, please do not hesitate to call our expert customer service, and we will be happy to give you any information you require. We want to you to maximize your car’s performance, and that means using quality components. We recognize that business longevity requires treating customers with the respect that we would expect. Our knowledgeable staff is more than willing to help out if you have any questions, so feel free to give us a call at (352) 241-8399 if you have any questions. A 240SX 5-speed swap can make a huge difference in improving your car’s performance, so place your order today and get the best deal from Enjuku Racing. One is Matt’s ’98 starfire blue S14, the other is my ’97 cobalt green S14. The procedure was basically the same for both cars, and some pictures may jump from one car to the other. The procedure is the same for OBDI cars except OBDI cars to not require the a Crank Angle Sensor. The parts necessary for the swaps were obtained from 2 separate OBDII ’96 S14s. OBDI transmissions could have been used, but a mount would have to be drilled for the CAS, and we didn’t want to worry about that. I will try to provide as many pictures as possible. WARNING: Before you start I suggest you read this entire writeup, and search for others - you will want all the info you can get. Also, plan on this taking longer than you think - some bolts are extremely hard to get to or break loose - and the transmissions are heavy and hard to stab in.

You can always stick the factory power windows in the base model but you can't always find a SE no sunroof.I've already figured that it was going to be a long wait for a 5spd to show up which is making me want to buy the auto even more, only problem is that I live in vegas so if I wanted you to do the swap I'd have to do it when we're both available. In order to stay competitive, it is important to keep up with the latest modifications and upgrades—not to mention regular maintenance. One of the most important upgrades you can make to an automatic Nissan 240SX is a swap to 5 speeds. If you want optimal power, speed, and performance, a 240SX 5-speed swap is critical. Fortunately, we provide the products and resources to make your conversion painless. As you might imagine, finding those parts can be challenging. Fortunately, we carry everything that you need so you do not have to bother scouring the internet or local shops for the parts you require. We offer top-of-the-line clutch lines, clutch fork pivots, cylinders, and much more, all at the lowest prices. If you are not sure how to get started, our expert staff will be more than happy to provide you with reliable information. We have an extensive inventory, and we specialize in Nissan 240SX parts, so place your order today. However, there are ways to cut down on prices drastically. For starters, you are here, so that is a step in the right direction. We keep our prices low because we know that is what gains us loyal customers. You will not find a better deal on Nissan 240SX 5-speed swap parts. When you also consider our top-notch customer service, our generous sales, and our rewards program, it becomes clear that Enjuku Racing is the preferred choice for Nissan parts for a reason. Our free rewards program gives you the opportunity to gain exclusive coupon codes that can reduce your 240SX manual swap costs substantially.

To get to the top ones, get a 27mm socket and turn the crank pulley. Slowly lower the transmission part way down and disconnect any of the wiring that you did not get before. We actually wedged in a jack bar to keep the flywheel from spinning, and put 2 sockets and breaker bars on the flywheel (one braced against the ground tightening to keep the flywheel from spinning, and another to break the flywheel bolts). If you have a propane torch, heat these mofo-bolts up and that should help you break them loose some more. If you (unlike us) have an impact wrench this may come in handy. 15. Once the flywheel comes off, you should see a bushing sticking out about a. Sand inside your crankshaft with some 800 grit sandpaper, this will help the pilot bushing slide in if there is rust buildup.Then clean out inside there really well. Take a hammer and a 12mm socket and hammer your pilot bushing into your crankshaft. Get them on there tight because you don’t want your flywheel to come loose and have to do all the above all over.Clean off your flywheel by spraying it with some carb cleaner or something similar. 3. Next, use the alignment tool and affix your clutch disc over the flywheel. If not, I believe the side of the clutch that the springs sit further out on goes towards the back of the car. 4. Now put on the pressure plate. Keep the alignment tool in the clutch and slide the pressure plate over the clutch. Now you can take the clutch alignment tool out. 5. Take the throwout bearing off of your 5 speed transmission if it has one on there and replace it with a new one if you have it (it will come in a clutch kit). To change it you may need a wheel puller and a hammer to get it back together. 5 ?. Take the shifter off the 5 speed transmission if you haven’t already. 6. Next, it is time to pre-wire your 5 speed transmission. Please refer to the “wiring section” of this writeup to do this. You will want to wire in most of the sensors before you install the 5 speed into the car.

Do not sacrifice safety for getting it done quickly. Although a 240sx only weighs 2800 lbs, it only takes 15 lbs of pressure applied correctly to break the human skull. Also we found it best to take off the front wheels to give you a little more room to work in. Drain your transmission fluid from the draining bolt. 2. Remove the finisher plate from your center console. On the differential side there will be 4 bolts that hold the drive shaft to the diff. Remove these bolts, you will want your parking brake on to keep the driveshaft from spinning. To get to the upper bolts, take off your parking brake and your drive shaft will spin, then reapply the parking brake (not too hard there guys). Let the back side of the driveshaft lay on the floor. Also remove the small d-shaft support a thick wire X-member that keeps the drive shaft from whipping around if it breaks. Get them out of your engine bay. 9. Disconnect all the sensors you can from you transmission, and the back O2 sensor on your exhaust. Two of the sensors can be cut. 10. Now for one of the time consuming parts (this took us most of a day). You will have to weave your hands in everywhere to find and remove the bellhousing bolts holding the transmission bellhousing onto your engine. We used a ratcheting wrench on the top bolts, with a breaker bar and a jack running from underneath the car to the wrench on top of the engine. For some of the other bolts we used a socket (with swivels), and for still other bolts we used obstruction wrenches. Two of the bellhousing bolts run through the starter, disconnect the starter before you take out these bolts then remove the starter.We found that the best way to access the two top bellhousing bolts was thru the passenger side of the engine bay, behind the engine block - we found it necessary to move some lines and disconnect a heater hose. 11. Next, remove the bolts holding the tranny to the cross member, then jack up the back of the tranny and remove off the cross member.

We got a CEL when using the Auto ECU, but I have heard you can wire the CEL light to the airbag or something to only light up when you start the car, or just put a resistor in the CEL circuit. 17. Drive it around the block, and take it easy until your clutch is broken in (about 500 miles) Wiring Visit: for wiring instructions. Any other sensors that were on the auto, but not on the 5 speed can be cut off and discarded - I believe there were 2 or 3 of them on the passenger side of the bellhousing. Results: The car ran fine, the transmission is very loud when the interior pieces are not installed, and you will get a CEL. But now you get to shift your car yourself. 5th gear on Matt's car will grind if you do not shift just right (the transmission is used, so some quirks are to be expected). Also we have not figured out how to get cruise control working - so that shouldn't be too hard. My car is not 100% swapped yet, but due to some previous-owner installed car alarm, I can't get my radio to work. Once the new ECU was installed, there was no CEL and no more rough starts - the car behaves exactly the same as a stick shift that came out of the factory. The Manual ECU can be used with the automatic transmission wiring harness. If your car is a '95 the new ECU must be from a '95 (maybe 96?) If your car is a '96 the new ECU must be from a '96 (maybe 95?) If your car is a 97-98, the new ECU must be from a 97-98, or you can re-pin a 95-96 ECU to work in a 97-98 240sx (which is what we did on Matt's car). In order to re-pin it, follow the link here: JWT Wiring pdf Once it is re-pinned, you may need to buy a new rear O2 sensor in order to clear all CELS (that is mentioned in the link) Sorry, I'm not to NICO savvy - I am mostly on local forums and don't visit this site a whole lot. If this is not removed then it could slip while driving and your key will be stuck in the ignition.

You may say that removeing it is common sense but so is removeing the auto shifter and everybody mentioned that. I believe the wiring is extremly similar, but some connectors look different and some wires are different colors. Everything works great, no 5th gear grind like on the starfire blue kouki. The only annoying thing is the clutch pedal.it is really soft, and it's a paint to adjust the pedal. In the near future I am going to swap in a 5 speed ECU which will get rid of all the codes. Once the new ECU was installed, there was no CEL and no more rough starts - the car behaves exactly the same as a stickshift that came out of the factory. The Manual ECU can be used with the automatic transmission wiring harness, it plugs straight in. If your car is a '95 the new ECU must be from a '95 (maybe 96?) If your car is a '96 the new ECU must be from a '96 (maybe 95?) If your car is a 97-98, the new ECU must be from a 97-98, or you can repin a 95-96 ECU to work in a 97-98 240sx (which is what we did).But you cannot use a S13 transmission in the S14 car because you will not have the sensor in the top of the transmission so that your ECU will work right,this is only true with the factory motor. The ABS cars use a shorter drive shaft in the back section. It's really best to get all your parts from a S13 if you're going 89 through 94 swap and if you're going a newer car use all S14 pieces, I have seen the petals interchanged but there are differences and you'll just have less headaches. I've done quite a few these conversions and deftly makes life easier. Also I just realized that I never said to bolt the 5 speed back to the engine.I am using this write-up which is very good by the way, but I have a few problems. I started with a non-turbo automatic s14 silvia and purchased a manual gearbox conversion kit out of a turbo silvia. The problem is the drive shaft is about 14mm too short and i can't get the starter motor to fit.

The one sensor on top front of the transmission (CAS?) you must leave out otherwise it will catch on the flywheel and break into lots of pieces, or rub on top of the transmission bay - make sure you put it back in later, otherwise your car will not work. 7. This is the hardest step to do. This step took us a good 6 hours and multiple attempts. Some people say that the tranny must be rotated while jacking it up so the starter hump points down, the rotated into place once it is mated to the transmission, we did not do this and still got it into place. We finally got it to work by: Putting one jack in the middle of the 5 speed (at its center of gravity on a flat spot) and another jack at the very back of the transmission. This allows you to wag the tranny side to side and up and down. Remove the exhaust piping that runs from the header to the cat so you can have more room to slide the transmission in there, you may want to have a rubber mallet to hammer the back of the transmission in. We had to keep going up and down with the transmission. Do not let the transmission shaft handle a whole lot of weight otherwise it will bend the shaft or break your clutch.We found the clutch part out the hard way. Bolt in all the bellhousing bolts and put on the starter. Then, slowly raise the back of the transmission while you lower the front of the engine and reattach the cross member and bolt the cross member back in to hold the back of the transmission up. You should now be able to take all the jacks out from under the transmission and put back in all sensors and vac. lines. 8. Now it’s time to install the clutch and brake pedals. First do the brake pedal otherwise the clutch pedal will get in the way. There are 4 bolts holding the brake assembly to the firewall, and one holding the brake assembly up under the dash. Remove all of these, and the two sensors on the brake pedal, and the cotter pin holding the brake pedal to the booster.

Now with some wrestling, the brake assembly will slide out and there is no need to drop the steering column. Now install your new brake pedal and put the sensors back in. One sensor is for the brake lights, the other I believe is for cruise control. If you only have one bung in your new pedal I believe the cruise control sensor can be mounted on the cluth pedal. 9. Once the brake pedal is in it is time to install the clutch pedal. Luckily, Nissan left a guide under the dash that tells you where to drill. Drill out the two bolt holes and the larger center whole with a circle cutter drill bit and touch it up with a dremel. Slide your clutch assembly up there and bolt it in, attach the clutch master cylinder on the other side and cotter pin them together. 10. Run the clutch hardline from the clutch master cylinder to the clutch slave cylinder and by now you should have bolted the slave cylinder on the engine. At this time you can also eliminate the clutch dampening system by bypassing the large diameter hardline loop, and going directly from the hardline coming out of the master cylinder to the rubber line coming out of the slave cylinder. This will give your clutch pedal a better feel and less stuff for you to worry about. 11. Reinstall the drive shaft, then fill the transmission up with gear oil (2.4 quarts max) from where the shifter sits, and then reinstall the shifter. Two of the shifter bolts you will have to be under the car to get to. 12. Bleed your clutch lines and adjust your clutch pedal to where you want it. 13. Re-install the shifter rubber boot, the center console, and the shifter finisher plate and leather boot. 14. Lower your car onto the ground (we ended up with our car teeter-tottering on 2 jack stands which was kind of funny and dangerous at the same time) 15. Start your car and see what happens. 16.

Do you know if these parts are different between the turbo and non-turbo versions.They are independent publications and are not affiliated with or endorsed by Nissan or Infiniti. Material may not be copied or reprinted without written permission. It may not display this or other websites correctly. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. I'm close to getting an S14, alot of the auto's are stupidly cheap. Just wondering what i need and how much its going to cost in parts for the conversion. Time isnt an issue, i'l figure it out myself with some help from mates! Thanks! You'll need: Gear box,manual drive shaft,fly wheel, clutch, clutch pedal with master, slave, manual brake pedal and dont for get to change the spigot bearing to a manual spigot bearing i think thats it.You'll have to link the top plug on the left (if your standing driver side of engine bay) of the fuse box.It's pretty simple really but i had to mechanics help me but so much better in manual. Sounds like a not too bad of a job, i feel confident to do it myself - have many friends who will help too. Only thing is i'l have to do it on the floor because i doubt my boss will let me use a ramp lol. Just seen so many good condition auto s14's and it seems like a good idea to convert them seeing as i have alot of time on my hands.I am currently selling off my project car, it contains everything you require to do a full auto to manual conversion, also you can sell off the rest of the bits you dont need from the car meaning you could get the conversion done for free. It is listed here: Nissan SR20DET Engine Swap Package S13 S14 S14a 200sx on eBay (end time 04-Jun-11 00:21:51 BST) I am selling it off as i require the garage space again for my next purchase, could get yourself a nice barginNot sure if this is good protocol but there is a good step by step here Auto to Manual Writeup (5 speed conversion): 240SX Technical Forum Mate I've got the whole lot ?

350 if you can collect it's all off car waiting to go. Will take it off you if all the parts are there and they work properly!Driftworks Ltd are regulated by the Finance Conduct Authority. CCL No.648295. Visit us today, and order the dynamic 240SX clutch line from ISR. Used Parts Manual Transmission 240sxusedparts.com Master List of the parts Pinterest Log in Sign up Privacy.

240sx auto to manual swap cost

On the differential side there will be 4 bolts that hold the drive shaft to the diff. Remove these bolts, you will want your parking brake on to keep the driveshaft from spinning. To get to the upper bolts, take off your parking brake and your drive shaft will spin, then reapply the parking brake (not too hard there guys). Let the back side of the driveshaft lay on the floor. Also remove the small d-shaft support a thick wire X-member that keeps the drive shaft from whipping around if it breaks. Get them out of your engine bay. 9. Disconnect all the sensors you can from you transmission, and the back O2 sensor on your exhaust. Two of the sensors can be cut. 10. Now for one of the time consuming parts (this took us most of a day). You will have to weave your hands in everywhere to find and remove the bellhousing bolts holding the transmission bellhousing onto your engine. We used a ratcheting wrench on the top bolts, with a breaker bar and a jack running from underneath the car to the wrench on top of the engine. For some of the other bolts we used a socket (with swivels), and for still other bolts we used obstruction wrenches. Two of the bellhousing bolts run through the starter, disconnect the starter before you take out these bolts then remove the starter.We found that the best way to access the two top bellhousing bolts was thru the passenger side of the engine bay, behind the engine block - we found it necessary to move some lines and disconnect a heater hose. 11. Next, remove the bolts holding the tranny to the cross member, then jack up the back of the tranny and remove off the cross member. To get to the top ones, get a 27mm socket and turn the crank pulley. Slowly lower the transmission part way down and disconnect any of the wiring that you did not get before.

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Press question mark to learn the rest of the keyboard shortcuts Log in sign up User account menu 3 Cost involved in auto to manual transmission swap? Or if I had a shop do it all what would I be looking at. I'm just curious and I know it's impossible to tell me exact prices. I've done the actual swap but most everything came with my SR so I only had to find the pedals and lines. A shop would charge a fortune, its not a difficult task if you're used to turning a wrench.I figured a shop would be expensive, but also thought with it being so common a swap that maybe they wouldn't charge a crazy amount. Acquiring the parts and the time to do it will be the fun part. There's a really good write up on nicoclub that you should read. One is Matt’s ’98 starfire blue S14, the other is my ’97 cobalt green S14. The procedure was basically the same for both cars, and some pictures may jump from one car to the other. The procedure is the same for OBDI cars except OBDI cars to not require the a Crank Angle Sensor. The parts necessary for the swaps were obtained from 2 separate OBDII ’96 S14s. OBDI transmissions could have been used, but a mount would have to be drilled for the CAS, and we didn’t want to worry about that. I will try to provide as many pictures as possible. WARNING: Before you start I suggest you read this entire writeup, and search for others - you will want all the info you can get. Also, plan on this taking longer than you think - some bolts are extremely hard to get to or break loose - and the transmissions are heavy and hard to stab in. Do not sacrifice safety for getting it done quickly. Although a 240sx only weighs 2800 lbs, it only takes 15 lbs of pressure applied correctly to break the human skull. Also we found it best to take off the front wheels to give you a little more room to work in. Drain your transmission fluid from the draining bolt. 2. Remove the finisher plate from your center console.

) you must leave out otherwise it will catch on the flywheel and break into lots of pieces, or rub on top of the transmission bay - make sure you put it back in later, otherwise your car will not work. 7. This is the hardest step to do. This step took us a good 6 hours and multiple attempts. Some people say that the tranny must be rotated while jacking it up so the starter hump points down, the rotated into place once it is mated to the transmission, we did not do this and still got it into place. We finally got it to work by: Putting one jack in the middle of the 5 speed (at its center of gravity on a flat spot) and another jack at the very back of the transmission. This allows you to wag the tranny side to side and up and down. Remove the exhaust piping that runs from the header to the cat so you can have more room to slide the transmission in there, you may want to have a rubber mallet to hammer the back of the transmission in. We had to keep going up and down with the transmission. Do not let the transmission shaft handle a whole lot of weight otherwise it will bend the shaft or break your clutch.We found the clutch part out the hard way. Bolt in all the bellhousing bolts and put on the starter. Then, slowly raise the back of the transmission while you lower the front of the engine and reattach the cross member and bolt the cross member back in to hold the back of the transmission up. You should now be able to take all the jacks out from under the transmission and put back in all sensors and vac. lines. 8. Now it’s time to install the clutch and brake pedals. First do the brake pedal otherwise the clutch pedal will get in the way. There are 4 bolts holding the brake assembly to the firewall, and one holding the brake assembly up under the dash. Remove all of these, and the two sensors on the brake pedal, and the cotter pin holding the brake pedal to the booster.

We actually wedged in a jack bar to keep the flywheel from spinning, and put 2 sockets and breaker bars on the flywheel (one braced against the ground tightening to keep the flywheel from spinning, and another to break the flywheel bolts). If you have a propane torch, heat these mofo-bolts up and that should help you break them loose some more. If you (unlike us) have an impact wrench this may come in handy. 15. Once the flywheel comes off, you should see a bushing sticking out about a. Sand inside your crankshaft with some 800 grit sandpaper, this will help the pilot bushing slide in if there is rust buildup.Then clean out inside there really well. Take a hammer and a 12mm socket and hammer your pilot bushing into your crankshaft. Get them on there tight because you don’t want your flywheel to come loose and have to do all the above all over.Clean off your flywheel by spraying it with some carb cleaner or something similar. 3. Next, use the alignment tool and affix your clutch disc over the flywheel. If not, I believe the side of the clutch that the springs sit further out on goes towards the back of the car. 4. Now put on the pressure plate. Keep the alignment tool in the clutch and slide the pressure plate over the clutch. Now you can take the clutch alignment tool out. 5. Take the throwout bearing off of your 5 speed transmission if it has one on there and replace it with a new one if you have it (it will come in a clutch kit). To change it you may need a wheel puller and a hammer to get it back together. 5 ?. Take the shifter off the 5 speed transmission if you haven’t already. 6. Next, it is time to pre-wire your 5 speed transmission. Please refer to the “wiring section” of this writeup to do this. You will want to wire in most of the sensors before you install the 5 speed into the car. The one sensor on top front of the transmission (CAS?

We got a CEL when using the Auto ECU, but I have heard you can wire the CEL light to the airbag or something to only light up when you start the car, or just put a resistor in the CEL circuit. 17. Drive it around the block, and take it easy until your clutch is broken in (about 500 miles) Wiring Visit: for wiring instructions. Any other sensors that were on the auto, but not on the 5 speed can be cut off and discarded - I believe there were 2 or 3 of them on the passenger side of the bellhousing. Results: The car ran fine, the transmission is very loud when the interior pieces are not installed, and you will get a CEL. But now you get to shift your car yourself. 5th gear on Matt's car will grind if you do not shift just right (the transmission is used, so some quirks are to be expected). Also we have not figured out how to get cruise control working - so that shouldn't be too hard. My car is not 100% swapped yet, but due to some previous-owner installed car alarm, I can't get my radio to work. Once the new ECU was installed, there was no CEL and no more rough starts - the car behaves exactly the same as a stick shift that came out of the factory. The Manual ECU can be used with the automatic transmission wiring harness. If your car is a '95 the new ECU must be from a '95 (maybe 96?) If your car is a '96 the new ECU must be from a '96 (maybe 95?) If your car is a 97-98, the new ECU must be from a 97-98, or you can re-pin a 95-96 ECU to work in a 97-98 240sx (which is what we did on Matt's car). In order to re-pin it, follow the link here: JWT Wiring pdf Once it is re-pinned, you may need to buy a new rear O2 sensor in order to clear all CELS (that is mentioned in the link) Sorry, I'm not to NICO savvy - I am mostly on local forums and don't visit this site a whole lot. If this is not removed then it could slip while driving and your key will be stuck in the ignition.

Now with some wrestling, the brake assembly will slide out and there is no need to drop the steering column. Now install your new brake pedal and put the sensors back in. One sensor is for the brake lights, the other I believe is for cruise control. If you only have one bung in your new pedal I believe the cruise control sensor can be mounted on the cluth pedal. 9. Once the brake pedal is in it is time to install the clutch pedal. Luckily, Nissan left a guide under the dash that tells you where to drill. Drill out the two bolt holes and the larger center whole with a circle cutter drill bit and touch it up with a dremel. Slide your clutch assembly up there and bolt it in, attach the clutch master cylinder on the other side and cotter pin them together. 10. Run the clutch hardline from the clutch master cylinder to the clutch slave cylinder and by now you should have bolted the slave cylinder on the engine. At this time you can also eliminate the clutch dampening system by bypassing the large diameter hardline loop, and going directly from the hardline coming out of the master cylinder to the rubber line coming out of the slave cylinder. This will give your clutch pedal a better feel and less stuff for you to worry about. 11. Reinstall the drive shaft, then fill the transmission up with gear oil (2.4 quarts max) from where the shifter sits, and then reinstall the shifter. Two of the shifter bolts you will have to be under the car to get to. 12. Bleed your clutch lines and adjust your clutch pedal to where you want it. 13. Re-install the shifter rubber boot, the center console, and the shifter finisher plate and leather boot. 14. Lower your car onto the ground (we ended up with our car teeter-tottering on 2 jack stands which was kind of funny and dangerous at the same time) 15. Start your car and see what happens. 16.

We have an extensive inventory, and we specialize in Nissan 240SX parts, so place your order today. However, there are ways to cut down on prices drastically. For starters, you are here, so that is a step in the right direction. We keep our prices low because we know that is what gains us loyal customers. You will not find a better deal on Nissan 240SX 5-speed swap parts. When you also consider our top-notch customer service, our generous sales, and our rewards program, it becomes clear that Enjuku Racing is the preferred choice for Nissan parts for a reason. Our free rewards program gives you the opportunity to gain exclusive coupon codes that can reduce your 240SX manual swap costs substantially. All you need to do is sign up for a free account and then start collecting rewards by liking and sharing pages, placing frequent orders, writing product reviews, and more. You are going to be surprised by how easy it is to keep your upgrades affordable! Just because our prices are low does not mean that we cut corners. We only sell products that we stand behind so you can order confidently. Our 240SX 5-speed swap parts are the best on the market. If you have any questions about them, please do not hesitate to call our expert customer service, and we will be happy to give you any information you require. We want to you to maximize your car’s performance, and that means using quality components. We recognize that business longevity requires treating customers with the respect that we would expect. Our knowledgeable staff is more than willing to help out if you have any questions, so feel free to give us a call at (352) 241-8399 if you have any questions. A 240SX 5-speed swap can make a huge difference in improving your car’s performance, so place your order today and get the best deal from Enjuku Racing. Steel braided teflon clutch line with CNC machined fittings and exterior red coating. Get the parts you need to boost your 240sx from Enjuku Racing.

How To: 5 Speed Swap in Convertibles (and other S13s): 240SX Convertible How i did my auto to manual conversion - SXOC Bulletin Board. Everyone's apocalypse a reflection guide, Monarch butterfly j form, Home user guide, Sod guide in cabal, Adoption animal form. It may not display this or other websites correctly. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. I'm close to getting an S14, alot of the auto's are stupidly cheap. Just wondering what i need and how much its going to cost in parts for the conversion. Time isnt an issue, i'l figure it out myself with some help from mates! Thanks! You'll need: Gear box,manual drive shaft,fly wheel, clutch, clutch pedal with master, slave, manual brake pedal and dont for get to change the spigot bearing to a manual spigot bearing i think thats it.You'll have to link the top plug on the left (if your standing driver side of engine bay) of the fuse box.It's pretty simple really but i had to mechanics help me but so much better in manual. Sounds like a not too bad of a job, i feel confident to do it myself - have many friends who will help too. Only thing is i'l have to do it on the floor because i doubt my boss will let me use a ramp lol. Just seen so many good condition auto s14's and it seems like a good idea to convert them seeing as i have alot of time on my hands.I am currently selling off my project car, it contains everything you require to do a full auto to manual conversion, also you can sell off the rest of the bits you dont need from the car meaning you could get the conversion done for free. It is listed here: Nissan SR20DET Engine Swap Package S13 S14 S14a 200sx on eBay (end time 04-Jun-11 00:21:51 BST) I am selling it off as i require the garage space again for my next purchase, could get yourself a nice barginNot sure if this is good protocol but there is a good step by step here Auto to Manual Writeup (5 speed conversion): 240SX Technical Forum Mate I've got the whole lot ?

You may say that removeing it is common sense but so is removeing the auto shifter and everybody mentioned that. I believe the wiring is extremly similar, but some connectors look different and some wires are different colors. Everything works great, no 5th gear grind like on the starfire blue kouki. The only annoying thing is the clutch pedal.it is really soft, and it's a paint to adjust the pedal. In the near future I am going to swap in a 5 speed ECU which will get rid of all the codes. Once the new ECU was installed, there was no CEL and no more rough starts - the car behaves exactly the same as a stickshift that came out of the factory. The Manual ECU can be used with the automatic transmission wiring harness, it plugs straight in. If your car is a '95 the new ECU must be from a '95 (maybe 96?) If your car is a '96 the new ECU must be from a '96 (maybe 95?) If your car is a 97-98, the new ECU must be from a 97-98, or you can repin a 95-96 ECU to work in a 97-98 240sx (which is what we did).But you cannot use a S13 transmission in the S14 car because you will not have the sensor in the top of the transmission so that your ECU will work right,this is only true with the factory motor. The ABS cars use a shorter drive shaft in the back section. It's really best to get all your parts from a S13 if you're going 89 through 94 swap and if you're going a newer car use all S14 pieces, I have seen the petals interchanged but there are differences and you'll just have less headaches. I've done quite a few these conversions and deftly makes life easier. Also I just realized that I never said to bolt the 5 speed back to the engine.I am using this write-up which is very good by the way, but I have a few problems. I started with a non-turbo automatic s14 silvia and purchased a manual gearbox conversion kit out of a turbo silvia. The problem is the drive shaft is about 14mm too short and i can't get the starter motor to fit.

Do you know if these parts are different between the turbo and non-turbo versions.They are independent publications and are not affiliated with or endorsed by Nissan or Infiniti. Material may not be copied or reprinted without written permission. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. It may not display this or other websites correctly. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. But I contacted a performance shop I know a couple guys out of, and as far as I know they will do the swap for me for 500 dollars flat and that is including the parts and labor.I was going to sell it to a friend who wanted to do this swap. I was going to sell it to a friend who wanted to do this swap.Come join the discussion about performance, builds, engine swaps, turbos, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more. Since I'm not one to flame for not searching, make sure you search next time before posting things like this that've been covered hundreds if not thousands of times.I havent done the swap yet though and itll be my first so Ill see how difficult it is. In order to stay competitive, it is important to keep up with the latest modifications and upgrades—not to mention regular maintenance. One of the most important upgrades you can make to an automatic Nissan 240SX is a swap to 5 speeds. If you want optimal power, speed, and performance, a 240SX 5-speed swap is critical. Fortunately, we provide the products and resources to make your conversion painless. As you might imagine, finding those parts can be challenging. Fortunately, we carry everything that you need so you do not have to bother scouring the internet or local shops for the parts you require. We offer top-of-the-line clutch lines, clutch fork pivots, cylinders, and much more, all at the lowest prices. If you are not sure how to get started, our expert staff will be more than happy to provide you with reliable information.

350 if you can collect it's all off car waiting to go. Will take it off you if all the parts are there and they work properly!Driftworks Ltd are regulated by the Finance Conduct Authority. CCL No.648295. There was a problem adding this item to the Cart Please try again later.LS1 Engine and T56 Manual Transmission Swap kit for Nissan 240SX S13 and S14Kit Includes Engine Mount, Transmission Mount, Oil Pan with Oil Pickup. This is CXRacing's Newest Products for Nissan 240SX S13 S14 Chassis. All Parts are Developed from Ground Up, Designed and Built Specially for the S Chassis with LS1 Motor Swap. It is one of the Best Complete Kits Available with the Most Competitive Cost. Dipstick Setup Uses Factory Dipstick(not included). The kit comes with Braided Oil Line and Fitting that Fits Factory Dipstick. See Pictures. You will need to make the line yourself because the lenght is depend on applications. All you need to do is to cut the braided line to the lenght you need and connect it with AN fittings. Part (s) Being Sold Has One or More Registered Patent(s)Register a free business account Exclusive access to cleaning, safety, and health supplies.This is CXRacing's Newest Products for Nissan 240SX S13 S14 Chassis. All Parts are Developed from Ground Up, Designed and Built Specially for the S Chassis with LS1 Motor Swap. It is one of the Best Complete Kits Available with the Most Competitive Cost. Dipstick Setup: - Use AN Fitting and Braided Line.- Use Factory LS Dipstick (Not Included). Note: - This kit is for T56 Manual Transmission ONLY. We do offer Different kit for Auto, Please Check Our Other Website Listings. - Dipstick Setup Uses Factory Dipstick(not included). The kit comes with Braided Oil Line and Fitting that Fits Factory Dipstick. See Pictures. You will need to make the line yourself because the lenght is depend on applications. All you need to do is to cut the braided line to the lenght you need and connect it with AN fittings.

Amazon calculates a product’s star ratings using a machine learned model instead of a raw data average. The machine learned model takes into account factors including: the age of a review, helpfulness votes by customers and whether the reviews are from verified purchases. I'm thinking about attempting to change my transmission from an automatic to a manual. If I don't, what would that affect (i.e. cruise control etc.)? what parts would I need.I've done auto to manual swaps in the past on a few older model Japanese cars like s13 240sx's and older Z cars as well. The hassle to get the parts needed like the clutch lines, pedal assembly, master cylinder, etc.It would actually easier to just sell off the car and get one with a manual.It's relatively simple to do, and some of the Miata recyclers (Planet Miata, MazMart, etc) can set you up with everything you would need. It really isn't a hassle if you're mechanically inclined. It's rare you'll find an even value-to-value trade. I've heard of other miata owners who have done this project and that's why I'm contemplating doing it too. They too have the same opinion as you, it's not easy but it's worth it. One of my main concern really is the ECU because as far as I know it controls the cruise control, overdrive, and maybe other thing that I don't know about. If I do change it, will I also have to change the wiring harness. Those are the questions that I was hoping to get help on. Of course hearing about the intangibles and idiosyncrasies wouldn't hurt either. From the search that I've done so far, this forum seems to have more knowledgeable miata owners than others so I'm hoping to hear from them. I think I've pretty much decided that I'm going to take on this project as soon as I've gathered all the necessary parts and information. So I agree with your advice to ignore the dissuaders. Thanks again and please don't hesitate to share any info that you might discover in the future regarding this project.

If you can do a clutch job, you can do a trans swap. I never actually tried to use the AUTO ECU since I had manual ones around. I would imagine that it would be mad about not seeing the sensors on the auto trans ?? My daily driver (99) was a slushbox, and it's all working fine (including cruise) A short list of parts you'll need. Clutch pedal assy. Brake (pedal only) Power Plant frame Driveshaft from Manual ECU from manual. Exhaust down pipe (can modify the orig) That's about it. Biggest PITA was figuring out the wiring to get the speedo and cruise to work, but I have that documented if you need it. GOOD LUCK!I have read the auto-manual conversion articles in the garage page, and basically Im now planning to buy the necessary parts online from planet-miata.com and mazmart.com. I will be looking for help in the future as I start this conversion as well.If you can do a clutch job, you can do a trans swap. I never actually tried to use the AUTO ECU since I had manual ones around. I would imagine that it would be mad about not seeing the sensors on the auto trans ?? My daily driver (99) was a slushbox, and it's all working fine (including cruise) A short list of parts you'll need. Clutch pedal assy. Brake (pedal only) Power Plant frame Driveshaft from Manual ECU from manual. Exhaust down pipe (can modify the orig) That's about it. Biggest PITA was figuring out the wiring to get the speedo and cruise to work, but I have that documented if you need it. That way you have ALL the parts you need and can see how everything is located. Plus you can eBay all the left over parts and possibly come out ahead financially. The down side is that it can take awhile to find a suitable donor car. Plan C of just buying a stack of parts, hoping you have enough and then ending up with a stack of undesirable parts just doesn't make sense to me. That way you have ALL the parts you need and can see how everything is located.

Plus you can eBay all the left over parts and possibly come out ahead financially. The down side is that it can take awhile to find a suitable donor car. Plan C of just buying a stack of parts, hoping you have enough and then ending up with a stack of undesirable parts just doesn't make sense to me. If not, go for it! IMO it's kinda fun and very rewarding. good luck! For one, I don't know why anyone who has an automatic would sell their car to get the same car that has a manual transmission. Financially it just doesn't make any sense because the auto's are worth about 2k less than the manual. Doing the swap shouldn't cost that much if you're doing it yourself. Well I guess if you have a boat load of money it would make sense to just take the loss to get what you want. If I had a boat load of money I wouldn't be posting my question on how to do this project. Oh yeah before someone gets smart and ask why I didn't buy one with a manual transmission to begin with, fyi, this car was a hand me down. So there you go. I also agree with Randy that successfuly completing this project could be very rewarding. Not to be a snot or anything, I posted here looking to get advice on how to do the project. I'm not looking for the obvious quick way solution (i.e. selling the car). I'm looking for responses from people like Randy and Mathias, for those of you following the thread. Thanks to everyone who has been helpful and for those who are yet to read my original post, keep the good advices coming. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. It may not display this or other websites correctly. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. It is being sold by someone who gave up on a sr20det swap. I have a 89 hatch that is getting beat on by my wife (driving it) and drunk neighbors ( driving into it) that is a manual, and a spare KA that is a manual. Thinkin' bout gettin an automatic KA, for the wife to drive.

First you need to find the clutch master cylinder, and preferably a junked 240sx 5-speed, for the harness.I wired my clutch safety switch to a wire on the ignition so it turns on when the ignition does. There are some other things, like the driveshaft, carrier bearing for the driveshaft, and something else.I just can't remember. First you need to find the clutch master cylinder, and preferably a junked 240sx 5-speed, for the harness.I wired my clutch safety switch to a wire on the ignition so it turns on when the ignition does. There are some other things, like the driveshaft, carrier bearing for the driveshaft, and something else.I just can't remember.I don't think it is required but I think that it helps. I can't think of anything else besides what you've listed that we used in our conversions. I doubt this, but I have a kaaz lsd along with chrome moly axles.no complaints here. People say that the differential isn't as strong as the 5-speed one, nor are the drive axles. I doubt this, but I have a kaaz lsd along with chrome moly axles.no complaints here.The fact is that they aren't nearly as strong, but unless you are pumpin out some serious torque.So you don't have to, but I did just for gits and shiggles.

240sx auto to manual swap s14

You will have to weave your hands in everywhere to find and remove the bellhousing bolts holding the transmission bellhousing onto your engine. We used a ratcheting wrench on the top bolts, with a breaker bar and a jack running from underneath the car to the wrench on top of the engine. For some of the other bolts we used a socket (with swivels), and for still other bolts we used obstruction wrenches. Two of the bellhousing bolts run through the starter, disconnect the starter before you take out these bolts then remove the starter.We found that the best way to access the two top bellhousing bolts was thru the passenger side of the engine bay, behind the engine block - we found it necessary to move some lines and disconnect a heater hose. 11. Next, remove the bolts holding the tranny to the cross member, then jack up the back of the tranny and remove off the cross member. To get to the top ones, get a 27mm socket and turn the crank pulley. Slowly lower the transmission part way down and disconnect any of the wiring that you did not get before. We actually wedged in a jack bar to keep the flywheel from spinning, and put 2 sockets and breaker bars on the flywheel (one braced against the ground tightening to keep the flywheel from spinning, and another to break the flywheel bolts). If you have a propane torch, heat these mofo-bolts up and that should help you break them loose some more. If you (unlike us) have an impact wrench this may come in handy. 15. Once the flywheel comes off, you should see a bushing sticking out about a. Sand inside your crankshaft with some 800 grit sandpaper, this will help the pilot bushing slide in if there is rust buildup.Then clean out inside there really well. Take a hammer and a 12mm socket and hammer your pilot bushing into your crankshaft. Get them on there tight because you don’t want your flywheel to come loose and have to do all the above all over.Clean off your flywheel by spraying it with some carb cleaner or something similar.

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One is Matt’s ’98 starfire blue S14, the other is my ’97 cobalt green S14. The procedure was basically the same for both cars, and some pictures may jump from one car to the other. The procedure is the same for OBDI cars except OBDI cars to not require the a Crank Angle Sensor. The parts necessary for the swaps were obtained from 2 separate OBDII ’96 S14s. OBDI transmissions could have been used, but a mount would have to be drilled for the CAS, and we didn’t want to worry about that. I will try to provide as many pictures as possible. WARNING: Before you start I suggest you read this entire writeup, and search for others - you will want all the info you can get. Also, plan on this taking longer than you think - some bolts are extremely hard to get to or break loose - and the transmissions are heavy and hard to stab in. Do not sacrifice safety for getting it done quickly. Although a 240sx only weighs 2800 lbs, it only takes 15 lbs of pressure applied correctly to break the human skull. Also we found it best to take off the front wheels to give you a little more room to work in. Drain your transmission fluid from the draining bolt. 2. Remove the finisher plate from your center console. On the differential side there will be 4 bolts that hold the drive shaft to the diff. Remove these bolts, you will want your parking brake on to keep the driveshaft from spinning. To get to the upper bolts, take off your parking brake and your drive shaft will spin, then reapply the parking brake (not too hard there guys). Let the back side of the driveshaft lay on the floor. Also remove the small d-shaft support a thick wire X-member that keeps the drive shaft from whipping around if it breaks. Get them out of your engine bay. 9. Disconnect all the sensors you can from you transmission, and the back O2 sensor on your exhaust. Two of the sensors can be cut. 10. Now for one of the time consuming parts (this took us most of a day).

Do not let the transmission shaft handle a whole lot of weight otherwise it will bend the shaft or break your clutch.We found the clutch part out the hard way. Bolt in all the bellhousing bolts and put on the starter. Then, slowly raise the back of the transmission while you lower the front of the engine and reattach the cross member and bolt the cross member back in to hold the back of the transmission up. You should now be able to take all the jacks out from under the transmission and put back in all sensors and vac. lines. 8. Now it’s time to install the clutch and brake pedals. First do the brake pedal otherwise the clutch pedal will get in the way. There are 4 bolts holding the brake assembly to the firewall, and one holding the brake assembly up under the dash. Remove all of these, and the two sensors on the brake pedal, and the cotter pin holding the brake pedal to the booster. Now with some wrestling, the brake assembly will slide out and there is no need to drop the steering column. Now install your new brake pedal and put the sensors back in. One sensor is for the brake lights, the other I believe is for cruise control. If you only have one bung in your new pedal I believe the cruise control sensor can be mounted on the cluth pedal. 9. Once the brake pedal is in it is time to install the clutch pedal. Luckily, Nissan left a guide under the dash that tells you where to drill. Drill out the two bolt holes and the larger center whole with a circle cutter drill bit and touch it up with a dremel. Slide your clutch assembly up there and bolt it in, attach the clutch master cylinder on the other side and cotter pin them together. 10. Run the clutch hardline from the clutch master cylinder to the clutch slave cylinder and by now you should have bolted the slave cylinder on the engine.

3. Next, use the alignment tool and affix your clutch disc over the flywheel. If not, I believe the side of the clutch that the springs sit further out on goes towards the back of the car. 4. Now put on the pressure plate. Keep the alignment tool in the clutch and slide the pressure plate over the clutch. Now you can take the clutch alignment tool out. 5. Take the throwout bearing off of your 5 speed transmission if it has one on there and replace it with a new one if you have it (it will come in a clutch kit). To change it you may need a wheel puller and a hammer to get it back together. 5 ?. Take the shifter off the 5 speed transmission if you haven’t already. 6. Next, it is time to pre-wire your 5 speed transmission. Please refer to the “wiring section” of this writeup to do this. You will want to wire in most of the sensors before you install the 5 speed into the car. The one sensor on top front of the transmission (CAS?) you must leave out otherwise it will catch on the flywheel and break into lots of pieces, or rub on top of the transmission bay - make sure you put it back in later, otherwise your car will not work. 7. This is the hardest step to do. This step took us a good 6 hours and multiple attempts. Some people say that the tranny must be rotated while jacking it up so the starter hump points down, the rotated into place once it is mated to the transmission, we did not do this and still got it into place. We finally got it to work by: Putting one jack in the middle of the 5 speed (at its center of gravity on a flat spot) and another jack at the very back of the transmission. This allows you to wag the tranny side to side and up and down. Remove the exhaust piping that runs from the header to the cat so you can have more room to slide the transmission in there, you may want to have a rubber mallet to hammer the back of the transmission in. We had to keep going up and down with the transmission.

Once the new ECU was installed, there was no CEL and no more rough starts - the car behaves exactly the same as a stick shift that came out of the factory. The Manual ECU can be used with the automatic transmission wiring harness. If your car is a '95 the new ECU must be from a '95 (maybe 96?) If your car is a '96 the new ECU must be from a '96 (maybe 95?) If your car is a 97-98, the new ECU must be from a 97-98, or you can re-pin a 95-96 ECU to work in a 97-98 240sx (which is what we did on Matt's car). In order to re-pin it, follow the link here: JWT Wiring pdf Once it is re-pinned, you may need to buy a new rear O2 sensor in order to clear all CELS (that is mentioned in the link) Sorry, I'm not to NICO savvy - I am mostly on local forums and don't visit this site a whole lot. If this is not removed then it could slip while driving and your key will be stuck in the ignition. You may say that removeing it is common sense but so is removeing the auto shifter and everybody mentioned that. I believe the wiring is extremly similar, but some connectors look different and some wires are different colors. Everything works great, no 5th gear grind like on the starfire blue kouki. The only annoying thing is the clutch pedal.it is really soft, and it's a paint to adjust the pedal. In the near future I am going to swap in a 5 speed ECU which will get rid of all the codes. Once the new ECU was installed, there was no CEL and no more rough starts - the car behaves exactly the same as a stickshift that came out of the factory. The Manual ECU can be used with the automatic transmission wiring harness, it plugs straight in. If your car is a '95 the new ECU must be from a '95 (maybe 96?) If your car is a '96 the new ECU must be from a '96 (maybe 95?) If your car is a 97-98, the new ECU must be from a 97-98, or you can repin a 95-96 ECU to work in a 97-98 240sx (which is what we did).

At this time you can also eliminate the clutch dampening system by bypassing the large diameter hardline loop, and going directly from the hardline coming out of the master cylinder to the rubber line coming out of the slave cylinder. This will give your clutch pedal a better feel and less stuff for you to worry about. 11. Reinstall the drive shaft, then fill the transmission up with gear oil (2.4 quarts max) from where the shifter sits, and then reinstall the shifter. Two of the shifter bolts you will have to be under the car to get to. 12. Bleed your clutch lines and adjust your clutch pedal to where you want it. 13. Re-install the shifter rubber boot, the center console, and the shifter finisher plate and leather boot. 14. Lower your car onto the ground (we ended up with our car teeter-tottering on 2 jack stands which was kind of funny and dangerous at the same time) 15. Start your car and see what happens. 16. We got a CEL when using the Auto ECU, but I have heard you can wire the CEL light to the airbag or something to only light up when you start the car, or just put a resistor in the CEL circuit. 17. Drive it around the block, and take it easy until your clutch is broken in (about 500 miles) Wiring Visit: for wiring instructions. Any other sensors that were on the auto, but not on the 5 speed can be cut off and discarded - I believe there were 2 or 3 of them on the passenger side of the bellhousing. Results: The car ran fine, the transmission is very loud when the interior pieces are not installed, and you will get a CEL. But now you get to shift your car yourself. 5th gear on Matt's car will grind if you do not shift just right (the transmission is used, so some quirks are to be expected). Also we have not figured out how to get cruise control working - so that shouldn't be too hard. My car is not 100% swapped yet, but due to some previous-owner installed car alarm, I can't get my radio to work.

CEL will trip if there is no VSS signal, so make sure it's hooked up too, it will also trip if the neutral and 5th position switches are not connected, but that will require more rewiring and the correct year manual ECU. So does this mean some things might not be neccesary? Edit Just wondering does anyone know if i can use the speed sensor on the auto tranny on the manual tranny. Don't just use this write up, use every piece of information you can find. This write up should answer pretty much all questions about manual swap in S13. Also feel free to correct me or add information and I will edit my information. Believe me, having the right tools for the job will mean the difference between two minutes and two days. Before anything comes off there are three things that need to be done: 1) Drain Transmission Fluid (To avoid a mess) 2) Remove Battery (For safety) and 3) Jack up your car and safely secure it with good jack stands. Before climbing under give the car a shake and confirm that it is on the jackstands solid. I also leave the jack under just in case and throw spare rims under just in case. 1) Remove all interior center console parts. This includes the center console, and shifter trim. This is pretty simple once you have the trim pieces gone. Just take off the little clip holding it to the shift linkage. Go back up top and remove the four screws holding the base of the shifter assembly on. First remove the four bolts holding the rear of the driveshaft to the differential. Once you get those off remove the two bolts holding the middle of the driveshaft. Six bolts and you're done. 4) Now let's unplug all the sensors on the transmission we can get to. Let's remove these lines and plug the two holes at the bottom of the radiator. Then last remove the clamp holding the rubber piece to the radiator. Before moving on, use the longer rubber hose off one of the two cooling lines to connect the two holes at the bottom of the radiator.

Makes things simple, instead of JB Welding the holes shut. There are going to be some difficult ones, so be prepared. At one point I was ready to pull the engine just to get the transmission out, but it ended up not being as bad as I thought. I suggest having at least one friend to help from the top or the bottom either holding the socket on or whatever. Having a friend help makes this process much easier. To get to the top three bellhousing bolts you will need to remove a few small things in the way. I suggest you take some pictures of how everything is near the back of the bay so that you know exactly how things went when you get around to putting things back on. I didn't have to remove much to get to the top three bolts, but I did have to move some things in the way. I guess it really just depends on how small you're hands are. For the top passenger side bolt: Remove the screws that secure the big hose going to the BMC along the top of the firewall. Pop the throttle cable out of its guides and move it out of the way as needed. To get the top center bolt out, remove the two nuts holding the transmission to the transmission mount. Place a jack underneath the rear of the transmission and jack it up until it can't go higher (Until it hits the chassis). To do this, Pull off the dust plate on the bottom front of transmission. Use a screwdriver to push the flex plate along and get to all four bolts. Once you've done this, now you can make sure the transmission is secure and remove the four bolts on the cross member. Once you remove the cross member bolts the transmission should be resting on one or two jacks. Using the jack(s) try to move the transmission backwards slowly and it should come right out. Slowly lower it down on the jack and remove any connections off the transmission that you may have forgot. Remove the torque converter and set it with the opening facing upwards so it won't leak oil everywhere.

But you cannot use a S13 transmission in the S14 car because you will not have the sensor in the top of the transmission so that your ECU will work right,this is only true with the factory motor. The ABS cars use a shorter drive shaft in the back section. It's really best to get all your parts from a S13 if you're going 89 through 94 swap and if you're going a newer car use all S14 pieces, I have seen the petals interchanged but there are differences and you'll just have less headaches. I've done quite a few these conversions and deftly makes life easier. Also I just realized that I never said to bolt the 5 speed back to the engine.I am using this write-up which is very good by the way, but I have a few problems. I started with a non-turbo automatic s14 silvia and purchased a manual gearbox conversion kit out of a turbo silvia. The problem is the drive shaft is about 14mm too short and i can't get the starter motor to fit. Do you know if these parts are different between the turbo and non-turbo versions.They are independent publications and are not affiliated with or endorsed by Nissan or Infiniti. Material may not be copied or reprinted without written permission. It may not display this or other websites correctly. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. Just a thought, does anyone on hear know of anywear that does (or specialises in) the auto to manual conversions. Any idea on price? Otherwise I'll have to DIY it and im a little nervous about that one. Failing that, il get some crates in and invite all you wounderful peeps round for a conversion party, lol. Doesn't look as hard as I thought it would be, May still invite a few of ya around to hold my hand when I tackle it, lol. Think Il try and source a gearbox and the rest of bits I need for begining of next month then when I get payed, so please keep your eyes open for me peeps. Or does someone have a spare lying around that they fancy selling to me?

You might need a clutch slave cylinder, spigot bush and gear lever though There may be an S.O.S. thread popping up in the near future, haha. There is a artical in the new Banzai mag about the conversion. Crifter. For ?200 of your finest moneys, ill come do the lot for you. Thanks for the offer, briliant pitch and all that, but im gonna have a crack at it myself first me thinks.Cool, but unfortunately i havent got a spare engine, lol Plan is to try and do it with the engine in situ.Driftworks Ltd are regulated by the Finance Conduct Authority. CCL No.648295. I have searched this topic I'm just looking to see if I can get some definite answers seein im using a sohc tranny. Manual transmission cross member clutch pedal hydraulic assembly flywheel clutch (getting a new one though) gusset pieces from the engine (not sure on the correct term) manual sheet metal piece (not sure on the correct term) misc bolts (pretty much every bolt that came off the car when I pulled the tranny) And heres the parts I need Drive shaft S14 manual ECU (for a 95) S14 manual speed sensor pretty much I was wondering if i'm missing anything.Problem is now I need to figure something out because I need to smog it and it has the check engine light on. The only thing i know about the later 95's is that some have the obd2 3 wire o2 sensor. If i'm not mistaken isnt that the crank position sensor.OBD-I cars have a single wire front sensor, excpet for late year autos that went to the 3wire. CPS is located directly on top of the bellhousing, slightly towards the driverside, secured with an M6 bolt. Remove it first, otherwise you risk damaging it when pulling the transmission. It is NOT secured through the block like the starter. It's easy to see if you look below the EGR pipe, between the head and the firewall.

This is the time when an impact gun would come in handy but not quite necessary. I will post a link or two so you can see different methods. Once I tried it like this, it came out without a problem. But feel free to try whatever method suits you best. This isn't very difficult as you just need a drill or angle grinder and some bits. You have to make a total of three holes in order to mount these up. Leave it plugged in, just tuck it somewhere out of the way. It comes off with one bolt, save that bolt, you will be using it to mount you're clutch bracket. First I found a drill bit just slightly bigger than the template hole, and drilled the two outer holes. The third hole took me longer just because I didn't have the proper tool(s) to make that big of a hole easily. I just used my biggest bit and kept hacking at it until it was big enough. Just mount the master cylinder up and have a friend inside car to pop on the pedal bracket. Screw on the two nuts in the engine bay for the master cylinder finger tight, then get inside the car and mount the clutch pedal bracket. So grab the bolt you had set aside and put it in to hold the bracket up. I used an angle grinder to cut the pedal with no problem. Now you're done with the pedals. 2) Wiring: This can be done later, but I chose to get it out of the way now. Keep in mind this is for S13, as S14 WILL be slightly different. Part A: For the reverse lights, all you do is find the row of three plugs on the back of the passenger engine bay fuse box. To do this, locate the plug that is underneath the row of three you were just looking at. Once you jumper them together, secure them nicely and tape them up so the weather can't get in. Just simply plug back in the piece you just jumpered and you're officially done with the wiring. DO NOT use twist caps to jump the wires like I did, I suggest soldering them or at the very least use a real connector LOL.

I lined up the bushing and tapped it in with a rubber mallet until it was flush with the outer lip of the crank. I also used a socket the size of the bushing to get it in right. Just make sure not to force it in crooked, it will break pretty easily. This goes between the engine and transmission and it aligns on dowels. Make sure to double check all six bolts, you do not want a loose flywheel. Before you install the clutch break out the Brakleen (brake cleaner) and clean the flywheel real good. You want a clean surface for the clutch disc to grab. Using the alignment tool mount the clutch disc on the flywheel. Mount up the clutch pressure plate and put in all the bolts. Finger tighten all of them evenly then torque in a criss cross pattern just like the flywheel bolts. Replace the throwout bearing on your transmission with a new one. You don't want to drop the transmission in a month due to a stupid bearing. Slip the old TOB off of the fork it's mounted on and then you can hammer off the old bearing from the carrier since the old bearing is garbage. Grease the splines the TOB goes on(Lithium grease works). To install the new bearing place a 2x4 over the new bearing on the carrier and hammer it on. Just make sure to put it on straight, don't bend bearing. Once pressed on check to see that the bearing is still functional. Install the carrier back on with the fork opposite of removal. Before we install the transmission remove the shifter. To remove just the shifter remove the C clip holding it in. Now we can get the transmission situated underneath the car. So now we need to install the transmission into the pilot bushing. This is a pain in the ass and pretty much just comes down to trial and error. It took me and my two friends about an hour to get it in. We tried using jacks to slowly raise it up and into position but in the end it was just easier to lift it up and into place.

After a tip from a friend we jacked up the front of the motor (oil pan) with a jack and block of wood to give ourselves a better angle at the hole. We lifted it so the starter hump was somewhat facing the ground and turned it as we moved it up. Once you do get it mated on there don't let go and get a few bolts in to hold it on. Put a jack under the rear of transmission to hold it up once you get some bolts in. Also, make sure you lower the front of the engine back down. Reinstall the Starter and reconnect the wiring to it. Jack up the tail of your transmission and install the manual cross member. Secure it with the same four bolts as the automatic cross member. Once it is all secure make sure the speed sensor is plugged in and the reverse light wiring you did earlier is connected to the reverse switch on the transmission. First I mated it to the transmission, then installed the middle mount (two bolts) then finally secured it to the driveshaft (4 bolts). Before you reinstall the shifter, put your transmission fluid in through the shifter hole. The manual transmission takes approximately 2.4 qts. of GL-4 rated gear oil. Do not use GL-5 rated gear oil, it will eat away at yellow metals (your synchros are yellow metal). Install shifter dust boot then rubber upper boot with finisher plate. Then Center console, Shift boot, and finally shift knob of your choice. At this point, reinstall everything you removed or moved in your engine bay and make sure everything is how it was before you started working on it. Run your clutch line from your master cylinder to the slave cylinder on the transmission. Fill master cylinder reservoir with DOT3 brake fluid. To bleed, open bleeder screw, have friend push and hold in clutch, close bleeder, release clutch pedal. Lower your car safely off of the jack stands or however you have it raised and put wheels back on if you took them off. Make sure everything you took off is back on and all bolts are secure.

You shouldn't have a check engine light or anything like that on S13, while S14 is a different story. Take it for a drive and follow whatever your personal liking for clutch break-in if it is a new clutch. Here are some useful links to sites I used while I was researching and learning about the conversion: Powered by Froala Editor. In order to stay competitive, it is important to keep up with the latest modifications and upgrades—not to mention regular maintenance. One of the most important upgrades you can make to an automatic Nissan 240SX is a swap to 5 speeds. If you want optimal power, speed, and performance, a 240SX 5-speed swap is critical. Fortunately, we provide the products and resources to make your conversion painless. As you might imagine, finding those parts can be challenging. Fortunately, we carry everything that you need so you do not have to bother scouring the internet or local shops for the parts you require. We offer top-of-the-line clutch lines, clutch fork pivots, cylinders, and much more, all at the lowest prices. If you are not sure how to get started, our expert staff will be more than happy to provide you with reliable information. We have an extensive inventory, and we specialize in Nissan 240SX parts, so place your order today. However, there are ways to cut down on prices drastically. For starters, you are here, so that is a step in the right direction. We keep our prices low because we know that is what gains us loyal customers. You will not find a better deal on Nissan 240SX 5-speed swap parts. When you also consider our top-notch customer service, our generous sales, and our rewards program, it becomes clear that Enjuku Racing is the preferred choice for Nissan parts for a reason. Our free rewards program gives you the opportunity to gain exclusive coupon codes that can reduce your 240SX manual swap costs substantially.

All you need to do is sign up for a free account and then start collecting rewards by liking and sharing pages, placing frequent orders, writing product reviews, and more. You are going to be surprised by how easy it is to keep your upgrades affordable! Just because our prices are low does not mean that we cut corners. We only sell products that we stand behind so you can order confidently. Our 240SX 5-speed swap parts are the best on the market. If you have any questions about them, please do not hesitate to call our expert customer service, and we will be happy to give you any information you require. We want to you to maximize your car’s performance, and that means using quality components. We recognize that business longevity requires treating customers with the respect that we would expect. Our knowledgeable staff is more than willing to help out if you have any questions, so feel free to give us a call at (352) 241-8399 if you have any questions. A 240SX 5-speed swap can make a huge difference in improving your car’s performance, so place your order today and get the best deal from Enjuku Racing. Press question mark to learn the rest of the keyboard shortcuts Log in sign up User account menu 6 S14 Manual Swap It's not terrible if you have any mechanical experience. Check forum posts for more details, like adypants said.Also people with bigger feet who have driven my car complain, because the auto brake pedal's design is a bit closer to the clutch pedal than the proper manual brake pedal should be. 2 share Report Save level 2 4 years ago basic steps because I can't sleep: undo driveshaft from diff and trans, drop driveshaft 1a.Try not to drop transmission on your friend who is helping you's face. 5a. remove auto shifter linkage and shifter from car.This may need an impact gun or someone on the front of the motor using a tool to keep it from spinning.Its been like 10 years since the last one I did, I don't remember the wiring.

240sx auto to manual swap pilot bushing

To get to the upper bolts, take off your parking brake and your drive shaft will spin, then reapply the parking brake (not too hard there guys). Let the back side of the driveshaft lay on the floor. Also remove the small d-shaft support a thick wire X-member that keeps the drive shaft from whipping around if it breaks. Get them out of your engine bay. 9. Disconnect all the sensors you can from you transmission, and the back O2 sensor on your exhaust. Two of the sensors can be cut. 10. Now for one of the time consuming parts (this took us most of a day). You will have to weave your hands in everywhere to find and remove the bellhousing bolts holding the transmission bellhousing onto your engine. We used a ratcheting wrench on the top bolts, with a breaker bar and a jack running from underneath the car to the wrench on top of the engine. For some of the other bolts we used a socket (with swivels), and for still other bolts we used obstruction wrenches. Two of the bellhousing bolts run through the starter, disconnect the starter before you take out these bolts then remove the starter.We found that the best way to access the two top bellhousing bolts was thru the passenger side of the engine bay, behind the engine block - we found it necessary to move some lines and disconnect a heater hose. 11. Next, remove the bolts holding the tranny to the cross member, then jack up the back of the tranny and remove off the cross member. To get to the top ones, get a 27mm socket and turn the crank pulley. Slowly lower the transmission part way down and disconnect any of the wiring that you did not get before. We actually wedged in a jack bar to keep the flywheel from spinning, and put 2 sockets and breaker bars on the flywheel (one braced against the ground tightening to keep the flywheel from spinning, and another to break the flywheel bolts). If you have a propane torch, heat these mofo-bolts up and that should help you break them loose some more.

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Used the single cam trans, but forgot that the motor was originally from an auto, and did not swap out the bushing for a new manual pilot bushing. The clutch alignment tool fit fine, no play, and the transmission mated fine. Everything I found stated that the inner diameter of the auto bushing was smaller and you physically could not mate the transmission or get the alignment tool in. It's a possibility that if it was, the auto pilot bushing was so far shot that that's the reason why your standard Trans mated relative easy. Or because someone already took out the auto pilot bushing. One is Matt’s ’98 starfire blue S14, the other is my ’97 cobalt green S14. The procedure was basically the same for both cars, and some pictures may jump from one car to the other. The procedure is the same for OBDI cars except OBDI cars to not require the a Crank Angle Sensor. The parts necessary for the swaps were obtained from 2 separate OBDII ’96 S14s. OBDI transmissions could have been used, but a mount would have to be drilled for the CAS, and we didn’t want to worry about that. I will try to provide as many pictures as possible. WARNING: Before you start I suggest you read this entire writeup, and search for others - you will want all the info you can get. Also, plan on this taking longer than you think - some bolts are extremely hard to get to or break loose - and the transmissions are heavy and hard to stab in. Do not sacrifice safety for getting it done quickly. Although a 240sx only weighs 2800 lbs, it only takes 15 lbs of pressure applied correctly to break the human skull. Also we found it best to take off the front wheels to give you a little more room to work in. Drain your transmission fluid from the draining bolt. 2. Remove the finisher plate from your center console. On the differential side there will be 4 bolts that hold the drive shaft to the diff. Remove these bolts, you will want your parking brake on to keep the driveshaft from spinning.

Some people say that the tranny must be rotated while jacking it up so the starter hump points down, the rotated into place once it is mated to the transmission, we did not do this and still got it into place. We finally got it to work by: Putting one jack in the middle of the 5 speed (at its center of gravity on a flat spot) and another jack at the very back of the transmission. This allows you to wag the tranny side to side and up and down. Remove the exhaust piping that runs from the header to the cat so you can have more room to slide the transmission in there, you may want to have a rubber mallet to hammer the back of the transmission in. We had to keep going up and down with the transmission. Do not let the transmission shaft handle a whole lot of weight otherwise it will bend the shaft or break your clutch.We found the clutch part out the hard way. Bolt in all the bellhousing bolts and put on the starter. Then, slowly raise the back of the transmission while you lower the front of the engine and reattach the cross member and bolt the cross member back in to hold the back of the transmission up. You should now be able to take all the jacks out from under the transmission and put back in all sensors and vac. lines. 8. Now it’s time to install the clutch and brake pedals. First do the brake pedal otherwise the clutch pedal will get in the way. There are 4 bolts holding the brake assembly to the firewall, and one holding the brake assembly up under the dash. Remove all of these, and the two sensors on the brake pedal, and the cotter pin holding the brake pedal to the booster. Now with some wrestling, the brake assembly will slide out and there is no need to drop the steering column. Now install your new brake pedal and put the sensors back in. One sensor is for the brake lights, the other I believe is for cruise control. If you only have one bung in your new pedal I believe the cruise control sensor can be mounted on the cluth pedal. 9.

If you (unlike us) have an impact wrench this may come in handy. 15. Once the flywheel comes off, you should see a bushing sticking out about a. Sand inside your crankshaft with some 800 grit sandpaper, this will help the pilot bushing slide in if there is rust buildup.Then clean out inside there really well. Take a hammer and a 12mm socket and hammer your pilot bushing into your crankshaft. Get them on there tight because you don’t want your flywheel to come loose and have to do all the above all over.Clean off your flywheel by spraying it with some carb cleaner or something similar. 3. Next, use the alignment tool and affix your clutch disc over the flywheel. If not, I believe the side of the clutch that the springs sit further out on goes towards the back of the car. 4. Now put on the pressure plate. Keep the alignment tool in the clutch and slide the pressure plate over the clutch. Now you can take the clutch alignment tool out. 5. Take the throwout bearing off of your 5 speed transmission if it has one on there and replace it with a new one if you have it (it will come in a clutch kit). To change it you may need a wheel puller and a hammer to get it back together. 5 ?. Take the shifter off the 5 speed transmission if you haven’t already. 6. Next, it is time to pre-wire your 5 speed transmission. Please refer to the “wiring section” of this writeup to do this. You will want to wire in most of the sensors before you install the 5 speed into the car. The one sensor on top front of the transmission (CAS?) you must leave out otherwise it will catch on the flywheel and break into lots of pieces, or rub on top of the transmission bay - make sure you put it back in later, otherwise your car will not work. 7. This is the hardest step to do. This step took us a good 6 hours and multiple attempts.

Results: The car ran fine, the transmission is very loud when the interior pieces are not installed, and you will get a CEL. But now you get to shift your car yourself. 5th gear on Matt's car will grind if you do not shift just right (the transmission is used, so some quirks are to be expected). Also we have not figured out how to get cruise control working - so that shouldn't be too hard. My car is not 100% swapped yet, but due to some previous-owner installed car alarm, I can't get my radio to work. Once the new ECU was installed, there was no CEL and no more rough starts - the car behaves exactly the same as a stick shift that came out of the factory. The Manual ECU can be used with the automatic transmission wiring harness. If your car is a '95 the new ECU must be from a '95 (maybe 96?) If your car is a '96 the new ECU must be from a '96 (maybe 95?) If your car is a 97-98, the new ECU must be from a 97-98, or you can re-pin a 95-96 ECU to work in a 97-98 240sx (which is what we did on Matt's car). In order to re-pin it, follow the link here: JWT Wiring pdf Once it is re-pinned, you may need to buy a new rear O2 sensor in order to clear all CELS (that is mentioned in the link) Sorry, I'm not to NICO savvy - I am mostly on local forums and don't visit this site a whole lot. If this is not removed then it could slip while driving and your key will be stuck in the ignition. You may say that removeing it is common sense but so is removeing the auto shifter and everybody mentioned that. I believe the wiring is extremly similar, but some connectors look different and some wires are different colors. Everything works great, no 5th gear grind like on the starfire blue kouki. The only annoying thing is the clutch pedal.it is really soft, and it's a paint to adjust the pedal. In the near future I am going to swap in a 5 speed ECU which will get rid of all the codes.

Once the brake pedal is in it is time to install the clutch pedal. Luckily, Nissan left a guide under the dash that tells you where to drill. Drill out the two bolt holes and the larger center whole with a circle cutter drill bit and touch it up with a dremel. Slide your clutch assembly up there and bolt it in, attach the clutch master cylinder on the other side and cotter pin them together. 10. Run the clutch hardline from the clutch master cylinder to the clutch slave cylinder and by now you should have bolted the slave cylinder on the engine. At this time you can also eliminate the clutch dampening system by bypassing the large diameter hardline loop, and going directly from the hardline coming out of the master cylinder to the rubber line coming out of the slave cylinder. This will give your clutch pedal a better feel and less stuff for you to worry about. 11. Reinstall the drive shaft, then fill the transmission up with gear oil (2.4 quarts max) from where the shifter sits, and then reinstall the shifter. Two of the shifter bolts you will have to be under the car to get to. 12. Bleed your clutch lines and adjust your clutch pedal to where you want it. 13. Re-install the shifter rubber boot, the center console, and the shifter finisher plate and leather boot. 14. Lower your car onto the ground (we ended up with our car teeter-tottering on 2 jack stands which was kind of funny and dangerous at the same time) 15. Start your car and see what happens. 16. We got a CEL when using the Auto ECU, but I have heard you can wire the CEL light to the airbag or something to only light up when you start the car, or just put a resistor in the CEL circuit. 17. Drive it around the block, and take it easy until your clutch is broken in (about 500 miles) Wiring Visit: for wiring instructions. Any other sensors that were on the auto, but not on the 5 speed can be cut off and discarded - I believe there were 2 or 3 of them on the passenger side of the bellhousing.

I suggest you take some pictures of how everything is near the back of the bay so that you know exactly how things went when you get around to putting things back on. I didn't have to remove much to get to the top three bolts, but I did have to move some things in the way. I guess it really just depends on how small you're hands are. For the top passenger side bolt: Remove the screws that secure the big hose going to the BMC along the top of the firewall. Pop the throttle cable out of its guides and move it out of the way as needed. To get the top center bolt out, remove the two nuts holding the transmission to the transmission mount. Place a jack underneath the rear of the transmission and jack it up until it can't go higher (Until it hits the chassis). To do this, Pull off the dust plate on the bottom front of transmission. Use a screwdriver to push the flex plate along and get to all four bolts. Once you've done this, now you can make sure the transmission is secure and remove the four bolts on the cross member. Once you remove the cross member bolts the transmission should be resting on one or two jacks. Using the jack(s) try to move the transmission backwards slowly and it should come right out. Slowly lower it down on the jack and remove any connections off the transmission that you may have forgot. Remove the torque converter and set it with the opening facing upwards so it won't leak oil everywhere. This is the time when an impact gun would come in handy but not quite necessary. I will post a link or two so you can see different methods. Once I tried it like this, it came out without a problem. But feel free to try whatever method suits you best. This isn't very difficult as you just need a drill or angle grinder and some bits. You have to make a total of three holes in order to mount these up. Leave it plugged in, just tuck it somewhere out of the way. It comes off with one bolt, save that bolt, you will be using it to mount you're clutch bracket.

First I found a drill bit just slightly bigger than the template hole, and drilled the two outer holes. The third hole took me longer just because I didn't have the proper tool(s) to make that big of a hole easily. I just used my biggest bit and kept hacking at it until it was big enough. Just mount the master cylinder up and have a friend inside car to pop on the pedal bracket. Screw on the two nuts in the engine bay for the master cylinder finger tight, then get inside the car and mount the clutch pedal bracket. So grab the bolt you had set aside and put it in to hold the bracket up. I used an angle grinder to cut the pedal with no problem. Now you're done with the pedals. 2) Wiring: This can be done later, but I chose to get it out of the way now. Keep in mind this is for S13, as S14 WILL be slightly different. Part A: For the reverse lights, all you do is find the row of three plugs on the back of the passenger engine bay fuse box. To do this, locate the plug that is underneath the row of three you were just looking at. Once you jumper them together, secure them nicely and tape them up so the weather can't get in. Just simply plug back in the piece you just jumpered and you're officially done with the wiring. DO NOT use twist caps to jump the wires like I did, I suggest soldering them or at the very least use a real connector LOL. I lined up the bushing and tapped it in with a rubber mallet until it was flush with the outer lip of the crank. I also used a socket the size of the bushing to get it in right. Just make sure not to force it in crooked, it will break pretty easily. This goes between the engine and transmission and it aligns on dowels. Make sure to double check all six bolts, you do not want a loose flywheel. Before you install the clutch break out the Brakleen (brake cleaner) and clean the flywheel real good. You want a clean surface for the clutch disc to grab. Using the alignment tool mount the clutch disc on the flywheel.

Once the new ECU was installed, there was no CEL and no more rough starts - the car behaves exactly the same as a stickshift that came out of the factory. The Manual ECU can be used with the automatic transmission wiring harness, it plugs straight in. If your car is a '95 the new ECU must be from a '95 (maybe 96?) If your car is a '96 the new ECU must be from a '96 (maybe 95?) If your car is a 97-98, the new ECU must be from a 97-98, or you can repin a 95-96 ECU to work in a 97-98 240sx (which is what we did).But you cannot use a S13 transmission in the S14 car because you will not have the sensor in the top of the transmission so that your ECU will work right,this is only true with the factory motor. The ABS cars use a shorter drive shaft in the back section. It's really best to get all your parts from a S13 if you're going 89 through 94 swap and if you're going a newer car use all S14 pieces, I have seen the petals interchanged but there are differences and you'll just have less headaches. I've done quite a few these conversions and deftly makes life easier. Also I just realized that I never said to bolt the 5 speed back to the engine.I am using this write-up which is very good by the way, but I have a few problems. I started with a non-turbo automatic s14 silvia and purchased a manual gearbox conversion kit out of a turbo silvia. The problem is the drive shaft is about 14mm too short and i can't get the starter motor to fit. Do you know if these parts are different between the turbo and non-turbo versions.They are independent publications and are not affiliated with or endorsed by Nissan or Infiniti. Material may not be copied or reprinted without written permission. Don't just use this write up, use every piece of information you can find. This write up should answer pretty much all questions about manual swap in S13. Also feel free to correct me or add information and I will edit my information.

Believe me, having the right tools for the job will mean the difference between two minutes and two days. Before anything comes off there are three things that need to be done: 1) Drain Transmission Fluid (To avoid a mess) 2) Remove Battery (For safety) and 3) Jack up your car and safely secure it with good jack stands. Before climbing under give the car a shake and confirm that it is on the jackstands solid. I also leave the jack under just in case and throw spare rims under just in case. 1) Remove all interior center console parts. This includes the center console, and shifter trim. This is pretty simple once you have the trim pieces gone. Just take off the little clip holding it to the shift linkage. Go back up top and remove the four screws holding the base of the shifter assembly on. First remove the four bolts holding the rear of the driveshaft to the differential. Once you get those off remove the two bolts holding the middle of the driveshaft. Six bolts and you're done. 4) Now let's unplug all the sensors on the transmission we can get to. Let's remove these lines and plug the two holes at the bottom of the radiator. Then last remove the clamp holding the rubber piece to the radiator. Before moving on, use the longer rubber hose off one of the two cooling lines to connect the two holes at the bottom of the radiator. Makes things simple, instead of JB Welding the holes shut. There are going to be some difficult ones, so be prepared. At one point I was ready to pull the engine just to get the transmission out, but it ended up not being as bad as I thought. I suggest having at least one friend to help from the top or the bottom either holding the socket on or whatever. Having a friend help makes this process much easier. To get to the top three bellhousing bolts you will need to remove a few small things in the way.

Mount up the clutch pressure plate and put in all the bolts. Finger tighten all of them evenly then torque in a criss cross pattern just like the flywheel bolts. Replace the throwout bearing on your transmission with a new one. You don't want to drop the transmission in a month due to a stupid bearing. Slip the old TOB off of the fork it's mounted on and then you can hammer off the old bearing from the carrier since the old bearing is garbage. Grease the splines the TOB goes on(Lithium grease works). To install the new bearing place a 2x4 over the new bearing on the carrier and hammer it on. Just make sure to put it on straight, don't bend bearing. Once pressed on check to see that the bearing is still functional. Install the carrier back on with the fork opposite of removal. Before we install the transmission remove the shifter. To remove just the shifter remove the C clip holding it in. Now we can get the transmission situated underneath the car. So now we need to install the transmission into the pilot bushing. This is a pain in the ass and pretty much just comes down to trial and error. It took me and my two friends about an hour to get it in. We tried using jacks to slowly raise it up and into position but in the end it was just easier to lift it up and into place. After a tip from a friend we jacked up the front of the motor (oil pan) with a jack and block of wood to give ourselves a better angle at the hole. We lifted it so the starter hump was somewhat facing the ground and turned it as we moved it up. Once you do get it mated on there don't let go and get a few bolts in to hold it on. Put a jack under the rear of transmission to hold it up once you get some bolts in. Also, make sure you lower the front of the engine back down. Reinstall the Starter and reconnect the wiring to it. Jack up the tail of your transmission and install the manual cross member. Secure it with the same four bolts as the automatic cross member.

Once it is all secure make sure the speed sensor is plugged in and the reverse light wiring you did earlier is connected to the reverse switch on the transmission. First I mated it to the transmission, then installed the middle mount (two bolts) then finally secured it to the driveshaft (4 bolts). Before you reinstall the shifter, put your transmission fluid in through the shifter hole. The manual transmission takes approximately 2.4 qts. of GL-4 rated gear oil. Do not use GL-5 rated gear oil, it will eat away at yellow metals (your synchros are yellow metal). Install shifter dust boot then rubber upper boot with finisher plate. Then Center console, Shift boot, and finally shift knob of your choice. At this point, reinstall everything you removed or moved in your engine bay and make sure everything is how it was before you started working on it. Run your clutch line from your master cylinder to the slave cylinder on the transmission. Fill master cylinder reservoir with DOT3 brake fluid. To bleed, open bleeder screw, have friend push and hold in clutch, close bleeder, release clutch pedal. Lower your car safely off of the jack stands or however you have it raised and put wheels back on if you took them off. Make sure everything you took off is back on and all bolts are secure. You shouldn't have a check engine light or anything like that on S13, while S14 is a different story. Take it for a drive and follow whatever your personal liking for clutch break-in if it is a new clutch. Here are some useful links to sites I used while I was researching and learning about the conversion: Powered by Froala Editor. Press question mark to learn the rest of the keyboard shortcuts Log in sign up User account menu 4 ka24de auto to manual swap question I plan on doing rear main seal and motor mounts. 2-How does the pilot bushing come out. The guy that sold me the 5spd told me to use the bread trick. 3-I plan on going exedy slave, master, clutch kit, and flywheel.

I saw bolt packs on ebay for auto to 5spd conversions, anyone used this. If not, where have you gotten your bolts from? 5-Anyone have experience with ebay short shift kits? 6-Any other tips for me to get it done in a day. They're like 90 bucks but just return it after you pull the bearing. People sometimes overlook those when doing the swap. They may last a forever or they may last a couple weeks depending on how hard you drive it. Might be something worth spending a little more cash on. I usually just take a chisel and break up the bushing. With enough stupid yelling and cursing it came out. For the dust plate, i saw a article from super street i think where they just bent the auto plate and made it work. I'll just put the stock shifter on for now and buy a name brand later then. If you don't, you're dropping the entire transmission again to get it on there. Using a 95' 240sx ODBII KA24DE This DVD will help anyone out wanting to swap a 5 speed in any type car - SOHC KA - SR20DET etc. You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to search the forums, post and respond to threads and polls, upload photos, send private messages, and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today. If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact contact us.We want to make sure everything is running perfectly smooth and that's where you can help. Thanks for your help and your continued loyalty to TST as we approach 15 years online! I did this on my s13 and mikes s13 Most of the install is strictly a pull out the old stuff put in the new stuff situation. There are a few points that people have issues with. Drilling the holes for your clutch master and hanging your clutch pedal are pretty straightforward.

On both S13 and S14 if you look under your dash against the firewall in drivers compartment drivers side you will see guides for the studs for the manual clutch pedal. You will also see a outline for the clutch master hole. Once you have done this you can hang your clutch pedal and mount the clutch master. Brake pedals, as you see above I listed them as optional. If you want to go all the way and install a manual brake pedal you have to drop your steering column. You will find four bolts on the underside that you have to remove once you have done that it will drop down. You can them remove your auto brake pedal and put in a manual brake pedal. If your lazy(I was) you will just take a dremel or powered die grinder and cut the auto brake pedal down to size. On your shift boots, in a S13 and s14 the trans hole is already there all you have to do is remove the auto trans shifter and bolt the lower shift boot and plate on the tunnel. On your upper shift boot on the S13 there is a inner plate around your auto trans shifter remove and you bolt your upper shift boot right to the underside of the console piece the screw clips are already there. Installing your clutch lines are straight forward the clips for them are already in place. Some people going for a complete stock factory look install the clutch dampner. Nissan installed it our cars to eliminate clutch pedal vibration at higher revs.You have now taken care of all mechanical install points that are not like a standard clutch job. You have to remove the automatic flywheel and install the pilot bushing. Once you have done this then you can install your flywheel with the manual flywheel bolts(longer). You can mount your clutch and install your trans and driveshaft. Now this is another area were some people go simple some people go all out. On S13 due to the fact its OBDI you can get away with running your auto ecu and you will not throw code.

On S14 you need to put in the 5 speed ecu because OBDII sees more things and will throw a code turning on your check engine light.If you are using a S14 trans in a S13 then you will have to put in the S13 manual trans speed sensor for it to read right and vice versa.These are actually colored pink and black and they are larger, on the auto trans harness, which you have already removed from your engine bay. On the engine bay side middle plug green and white wires). You will also take the plug from it as you will need it to hook it into the wiring on the car. Now some people have gone as far as completely adapting the auto harness to the manual trans with all gear sensors hooked up. There really is not a big need for this since it will not affect your smog or throw code. I did not bother with that due to the fact I would not start a manual car without my foot on the clutch anyways. Ok in your engine compartment at the relay box by your battery you are going to find a relay that is your auto trans in park relay. This tells your car that it is in park and will allow you to start your engine.This will allow you to start your car with the manual trans swap.It has no speed cut and has a 7200 rpm rev limit which is higher than the manual trans 6900 rpm limit. I have found this to make all the cars I have done the auto to manual swap on to be quicker than stock cars with 5 speeds.To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. If your car does nothing, you pass I'd check with your local track, even if it's drifting, what their requirement is. It's not hard to wire up a 2way switch in place of a clutch saftey switch, or you can always do it the rght way. Accedents happen, but I'd be pissed if you rear ended me in the staging lanes because you were to lazy to wire in a clutch safety switch.I would suggest just looking at the wiring diagrams in the FSM.

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Analytical cookies We use a web analysis program named 'Google Analytics', which allows us to optimise the website for your convenience based on anonymous website use data, without consulting any personally identifiable data. We do not collect any of your personal data by means of tracking cookies, data combination or profiling. Social media cookies: we do not place these cookies Remarketing cookies: we do not place these cookies. The M240B provides the heavy volume of close and continuous fire needed to accomplish the mission. The M240B is used to engage targets beyond the range of individual weapons, with controlled and accurate fire. The long-range, close defensive, and final protective fires delivered by the M240B form an integral part of a unit's defensive fires. This chapter describes the weapon and the types of ammunition in detail and provides a table of general data. It also discusses the different types of ammunition that are fired from the M240B machine gun. This section also discusses the ammunition adapter and the blank firing adapter for the M240B machine gun. The M240B is a belt-fed, air-cooled, gas-operated, fully automatic machine gun that fires from the open bolt position. Ammunition is fed into the weapon from a 100-round bandoleer containing a disintegrating metallic split-link belt. The gas from firing one round provides the energy for firing the next round. Thus, the gun functions automatically as long as it is supplied with ammunition and the trigger is held to the rear. As the gun is fired, the belt links separate and are ejected from the side. Empty cases are ejected from the bottom of the gun. A spare barrel is issued with each M240B, and barrels can be changed quickly as the weapon has a fixed head space. However, barrels from different weapons should not be interchanged. The bore of the barrel is chromium plated, reducing barrel wear to a minimum. Houses the cartridge for firing and directs the projectile.

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A buildup of carbon inside the weapon causes friction between the movi00ng parts. Carbon deposits build up rapidly when blanks are fired. When these deposits become excessive, stoppages occur. Therefore, the weapon must be kept clean, especially the gas system and chamber, during blank firing. To get the best performance with the BFA, the gunner performs the following: Maintenance aspects of the M240B include inspection; cleaning and lubrication; and maintenance before, during, and after firing, and during NBC conditions. Associated tasks essential to maintenance (clearing, general disassembly and assembly, and function checks) are provided in detail. This applies in all situations, not just after firing. To clear the M240B, the gunner performs the following procedures: Pull cocking handle to the rear, and pull the trigger while manually riding the bolt forward.Disassembly beyond what is explained in this manual is prohibited, except by ordnance personnel.) During general disassembly, the gunner clears the weapon. He ensures the bolt is forward before disassembly, and he places each part on a clean, flat surface such as a table or mat. This aids in assembly in reverse order and avoids the loss of parts. Slide the butt stock upward (straight up) and remove it from the receiver ( Figure 3-11 ). Push the driving spring rod assembly forward and up to disengage its retaining stud from inside the receiver ( Figure 3-12 ). Pull rearward on the drive spring rod assembly, removing it from the receiver ( Figure 3-13 ). Hold rod assembly securely as it is under tension. Pull the cocking handle to the rear to start the rearward movement of the bolt and operating rod assembly inside of the receiver. With the index finger, reach inside the top of the receiver and push rearward on the face of the bolt until the bolt and operating rod assembly are exposed at the rear of the receiver. Grasp the bolt and operating rod and remove them from the rear of the receiver.

Return the cocking handle to the forward position ( Figure 3-14 ). You may need to use the back of the back plate of the buttstock to tap on the spring pin, then remove pin with fingers. Rotate the rear of the trigger-housing group assembly down, disengage the holding notch at the front of the assembly from its recess on the bottom of the receiver, and remove the assembly from the receiver ( Figure 3-16 ). You may need to use the back of the back plate of the buttstock to tap on the spring pin. (B) Then remove pin with fingers. All pins go from right to left. (C) Depress cover latches, lift upwards and remove cover assembly. (D) Remove feed tray ( Figure 3-17 ). Depress the barrel-locking latch located on the left side of the receiver where the barrel joins the receiver and hold. (B) Grasp the barrel carrying handle and rotate the carrying handle to the upright position (without pulling up on the barrel release). (C) Then push forward and pull up, separating the barrel from the receiver ( Figure 3-18 ). Remove the collar from the gas plug. (C) Slide the gas regulator plug from front to rear, removing it from the gas hole bushing. (D) Remove heat shield. Lift the rear of heat shield assembly off the barrel, then pry one of the front metal tabs out of hole on gas hole bushing, rotate the heat shield towards the other metal tab, and remove heat shield from the barrel. This completes the general disassembly ( Figure 3-19 ). Note that a shiny surface on a part does not mean the parts are unserviceable. The gunner inspects each area of the weapon and related equipment for the conditions indicated. Any broken or missing parts should be repaired or replaced IAW TM 9-1005-313-10. If the weapon has not been used in 90 days, the PMCS in the operator's manual should be performed regardless. If you see rust on a weapon, the PMCS should be done immediately. Inspect all of the components for broken or missing parts.

Houses action of the weapon and, through a series of cam ways, controls function of weapon. Moves in a guide rail fixed to the right side of the receiver. Top rail configuration allows mounting of optical and electronic sights. Has a slotted top to allow air to circulate around barrel for cooling purposes. Since the sight on the barrel is adjusted to zero the machine gun, both barrels must be zeroed before combat and training. The rear sight is attached to the rear of the receiver and is marked for each 100 meters of range, from 200 to 800 meters on the upper surface of the leaf, and on the reverse side of the leaf from 800 to 1,800 meters. ( Figure 3-1 ) The safety can only be engaged when the bolt is in the rear position.The specific type ammunition and its characteristics are as shown in ( Figure 3-3 ). Soldiers use only authorized ammunition that is manufactured to US and NATO specifications. The ammunition is issued in a disintegrating, metallic, split-linked belt ( Figure 3-4 ). When tracer rounds are fired, they are mixed with ball ammunition in a ratio of four ball rounds to one tracer round. If ammunition is in the open, it must be kept at least 6 inches above the ground and covered with a double thickness of tarpaulin. The cover must be placed so that it protects the ammunition yet allows ventilation. Trenches are dug to divert water from flowing under the ammunition. Ammunition should not be removed from the airtight containers until ready for use. Ammunition removed from the airtight containers, particularly in damp climates, may corrode. If it gets wet or dirty, the ammunition must be wiped off before using. Lightly corroded cartridges are wiped off as soon as the corrosion is discovered. Heavily corroded, dented, or loose projectiles should not be fired. Excessive pressure from the heat may cause premature detonation. Oil collects dust and other abrasives that may possibly damage the operating parts of the weapon.

Each carton contains 100 rounds and weighs about 7 pounds. Ammunition in the bandoleers may be linked together, attached to the hanger assembly, and fired from the container or the bandoleers may be removed for firing. This adapter allows the gunner to use the 100-round carton and bandoleer. ( Figure 3-5 ). The ammunition adapter is fitted to the left side and under the feed tray of the receiver. When looking at the left side of the receiver, you will see a slot and a button under the feed tray ( Figure 3-5 ). The gunner first attaches the bandoleer holder to the base of the adapter by inserting the tapered end (green plastic) of the holder into the adapter. Then the gunner opens the cover assembly, and raises the feed tray. He inserts the curved lip of the adapter assembly into the slot located in the rail on the left of the receiver, below the feed tray, depressing the lever on the adapter assembly, and pushing the assembly towards the receiver, until it is against the receiver. Releasing the lever to allow the adapter assembly to secure itself onto the button on the receiver ( Figure 3-5 ). Over a prolonged period, the moving parts, to include plastic, will start to wear out and break. The tube fits inside the flash suppressor with the remaining portion fitting over the outside of the flash suppressor, flush against the gun muzzle and flush with the forward end of the flash suppressor. The BFA is secured by using the following procedures. Unscrew the shaft (1) until it slides all the way to the rear. Install the chamber device (2) over the flash suppressor (3). Slide the shaft (1) into the throat of the flash suppressor. Engage the threads on shaft into the body of the chamber device (2); turn clockwise until it is hand tight. Hold the barrel and rotate the chamber of the body (2) about 180 degrees counterclockwise to break any carbon sealed between the shaft (1) and the suppressor (3). Remove the chamber device from the suppressor (3).

Inspect parts for cracks, dents, burrs excessive wear, rust, or corrosion.Disassemble, inspect, and clean the gas collar and plug. Inspect carrying handle assembly for bent, broken, or missing parts. Assure the heat shield is present, on the barrel assembly, and is not bent or broken, and does not have any missing parts. Do not apply lubricants to composite or rubber components. Check for burrs and rough edges on mating grooves and flanges. Check to be sure the back plate latch locks the buffer assembly securely to the receiver assembly when installed. Make sure the buffer plug sticks out through the back plate and is flush or higher than the protrusion below it. Make sure there is no rattling sound when the buffer is shaken and that the plug cannot rotated by finger pressure. Check to make sure the back plate locks the butt stock securely to the receiver assembly when installed. Inspect entire area of the bolt and operating rod assembly for missing parts, broken or cracked areas, burrs, bends, or pits on the surface. Looking at the bolt, you can see if the firing pin is broken. When the bolt and operating rod are pulled to the rear, the piston should move freely without binding. Inspect the tripping lever and sear for burrs on edges. The sear should not drop down far enough to lock in the downward position. The sear should drop down and lock in the downward position. Check the sear spring, ensuring the leg of the spring is behind the trigger pin and not between the trigger and the pin. Check grip assembly for loose or missing grip screws. Check trigger spring pin for bends, and or broken or missing spring. Push in on the cover latches to make sure the retaining clip is not weak or missing and that they do not bind in the housing. Push down on the cartridge guides and feed pawls to make sure the springs are not weak or missing. Inspect accessory mounting rail for nicks or burrs. Check that the cocking handle operates the slide properly.

Pull the cocking handle to the rear and allow it to slowly return forward, making sure that the slide does not bind in the receiver. Check for damaged or missing ejection port cover, spring, and pin. Lower and raise the bipod legs, ensuring they move freely without binding. Check bipod legs for cracks, or twisted or incomplete assembly. Check the exterior surface of the M240B for the exterior protective finish. Be sure parts are installed correctly and are in good working condition. When installing the barrel, move the barrel release slowly to the right and count the number of clicks. Fewer than two and more than seven clicks indicate defective parts. Check both barrels. Check weapon functioning with belted dummy ammunition by performing a function check. If weapon does not function properly and the cause cannot be determined using troubling shooting procedures, notify direct-support maintenance. The numbers on the scales and dials must be legible. Index lines should be calibrated with the indicator pointer. Such washing may destroy the waterproofing and shrink the case. At a minimum, the M240B should be cleaned after firing a basic load of 900 to 1,200 rounds. The gunner disassembles the M240B into its major groups for cleaning. All metal components and surfaces that have been exposed to powder fouling should be cleaned using CLP on a bore-cleaning patch. CLP is used on the bristles of the receiver brush to clean the receiver. After the M240B is cleaned and wiped dry, a thin coat of CLP is rubbed on using a cloth. This lubricates and preserves the exposed metal parts during all normal temperature ranges. When cleaning the barrel, avoid getting CLP or RBC in the gas regulator.As soon as possible after firing the M240B, the gunner disassembles the weapon into its eight major assemblies and cleans them as follows. Before the weapon is disassembled, ensure it is clear: Do not reverse direction of the bore brush while it is in the bore.

Insert the small reamer into each hole and twist back and forth to remove the carbon (apply hand pressure only) ( Figure 3-20 ). Be sure the tool is fully inserted and seated against the gas cylinder. Apply slight pressure to the handles and turn clockwise to remove carbon ( Figure 3-22 ). Damage to the fore-end of the gas cylinder could cause gas leakage and subsequent weapon stoppage. Squeeze handles firmly and twist the tool to remove carbon ( Figure 3-23 ). Weapons fired infrequently or stored for prolonged periods should have a light film of CLP. This should be applied to the interior of the gas cylinder and the gas piston immediately after cleaning or after inspection. Preventive maintenance is performed every 90 days, unless inspection reveals more frequent servicing is necessary. The use of the lubricant does not eliminate the requirement for cleaning and inspecting to ensure that corrosion has not formed. Before the weapon is used, the gas system and components must be cleaned and free of oil and lubricants. A clean rag is then used to wipe them down and CLP is used to lubricate them. Wipe with rag after each application to remove excess. Insert the gas regulator plug into the gas hole bushing so that it is on the number one setting. (number 1 gas setting on the regulator faces towards the barrel). Place the gas collar over the front end of the gas regulator plug, while pushing against the spring, rotate counterclockwise until it stops. Insert one of the metal tabs of the heat shield in to the hole located of the sides of the gas hole bushing, than rotate it so that the other tab locks in place. Then push down on the heat shield so that it snaps onto the barrel. With gas regulator downward and carrying handle in the vertical position, place barrel on the barrel support (located on the gas cylinder). Keeping the gun upright, pull the barrel to the rear ensuring the gas regulator is guided into the gas cylinder.

Pull the barrel fully into the receiver and rotate the carrying handle completely to the right, ensuring to count the number of clicks. If the number of clicks fall between 2 to 7, the headspace is set correctly. If the number falls outside 2 to 7, turn it in to the unit armor (make sure that the threads on the barrel are located on top and bottom and on the inside of the receiver make sure that the threads are located on the left and right) ( Figure 3-24 ). Position the feed tray on the receiver so that the feed tray guides are aligned with the receiver brackets. Place the cover assembly onto the receiver aligning its mounting holes with the mounting brackets on the receiver, close the cover assembly. Then, insert the spring pin into the holes to affix the cover and feed tray to the receiver (insert the spring of the spring pin into the hole than push in from right to left). Insert the holding notch on the front of the trigger housing into the forward recess on the bottom of the receiver. Rotate the rear of the trigger housing upwards and align the holes of the trigger housing with the mounting bracket on the receiver. Hold the trigger housing assembly and insert the spring pin into the hole, securing the assembly to the receiver. (insert the spring of the spring pin into the hole than push in from right to left) ( Figure 3-25 ). Make sure the bolt and operating rod are fully extended (unlocked position). Insert the bolt and operating rod into the rear of the receiver (bolt upward, operating rod beneath bolt) ensuring the bolt is on top of the rails located on the left and right inner walls of the receiver. Push the entire bolt and operating rod assembly into the receiver as far forward as possible. Pull the trigger to allow the sear to drop and the group to slide all the way into the receiver ( Figure 3-26 ). Insert the driving spring rod assembly into the receiver, sliding it all the way forward against the recess in the rear of the operating rod.

Push in and lower the driving spring rod assembly to engage the retaining stud into the hole located on the bottom of the receiver ( Figure 3-27 ). Position the bottom recess grooves of the butt stock onto the top of the receiver recess grooves. Slide the butt stock down until it locks in place on the receiver. Line the handguard on the bottom of the gas cylinder and push upwards.Changing the barrel prolongs the life of both barrels. If these are not available, he washes the weapon with soap and water. If not, he uses towelettes or rags. (For more details, see FM 3-5.) This includes loading, unloading, cycle of functioning, adjustment of the sights, and use of both the bipod and tripod. The M240B is fired, unloaded, and cleared from the open bolt position. Before belted ammunition can be used, it must be linked with the double link at the open end of the bandoleer. In almost all cases, the M240B machine gun can be best used when fired from a tripod; the M240B's potential for continuous, accurate fire and control manipulation is maximized. However, in some circumstances, the gunner may use the bipod mount. While maintaining rearward pressure, he pulls the trigger and eases the bolt assembly forward. He places the first round of the belt in the feed tray groove, double link leading, with open side of links face down. He holds the belt about six rounds from the loading end, while closing the cover assembly. Ensure that the round remains in the feed tray groove, and close the cover assembly ( Figure 3-28 ). Trained gun crews are the only personnel authorized to load the M240B and only when command directs the crew to do so. During normal training exercises, the M240B is loaded and carried with the bolt in the forward position. He manually returns the cocking handle to its forward position. He performs the four-point safety check (see Section III ). The weapon functions automatically as long as ammunition is fed into it and the trigger is held to the rear.